Class L A r« sJsjj' 
Bonk »C 3 VjC c 



1 



ft 



■ X 



CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 



JOUENALS 

OF 

TWO VISITATIONS 

IN 1848 AND 1850. 




BY THE 

EIGHT KEY. ROBERT GREY, D.D. 

LORD BISHOP OF CAPETOWN. 



WITH MAPS. 



NOTE . Tht< line, marks c of G 

th& .Bishops route 



17 




Colo n j 
CAPE or GOOD HOPE 



26 



40 60 80 



UrujUsh Miles . 



= np = T 



€f>imi> in tf)e Colonies. 

No. XXII. 



DIOCESE OF CAPETOWN. — PART I. 



A JOURNAL 

OF 

ME BISHOP'S VISITATION TOUR 

THROUGH 

THE CAPE COLONY, IN 1848, 



WITH AN ACCOUNT OF HIS 

VISIT TO THE ISLAND OF ST. HELENA, IN 1849, 

an* a iMap, 

r < - J 1L 

LONDON: 

PRINTED FOR 

THE SOCIETY FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSPEL; 

AND SOLD BY THE 

SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE, 

GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS, 
AND 4, ROYAL EXCHANGE ; 
RIVINGTONS ; HATCH ARDS ; AND ALL BOOKSELLERS. 

1849. 

October. 



LONDON : 

R. OLAY. PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. 



NOTICE. 



It is due to the Bishop of Capetown to 
state that the following Journal of his primary- 
Visitation through his Diocese is published 
without any direct sanction from his Lordship. 
The family of the Bishop have, however, kindly 
granted to the Society for the Propagation of 
the Gospel, permission to print what, although 
written as a private journal, contains so much 
matter of public importance, and conveys such 
interesting details of the Bishop's valuable 
labours in the Church's cause. Extracts from 
the Bishop's correspondence are added, nar- 
rating his visitation at St. Helena in March 
and April, 1849. 

The accompanying Map, furnished through 
the liberality of Mr. J. Arrowsmith, has been 
adapted to the Journal. 



ITINERARY OF THE BISHOP'S VISITATION 
m 1848. 



Time. Place. Page 

August 24 Sandileet 1 

„ 25 Somerset 2 

„ Cole's Pass 2 

,, 26 Caledon 3 

„ 30 Genadendal 6 

31 Zonder-Ende 7 

Sept. 1 — 4 Swellendam 8 

5 Riversdale 13 

6 Goaritz River 14 

„ 7 Mossel Bay 14 

„ 8—10 George 15 

„ 11 Pakalsdorp .« 18 

„ 12 Belvideref. 19 

„ 13 Portlands 21 

,,14—17 Melville 21 

„ 15 Plettenberg Bay 22 

„ 18 Avonteuer 24 

„ 19—20 Lange Kloof 26 

„ 21 Eschenbosch 28 

Moulinans 28 

Human , 28 

22 St. Francis Bay 28 

,,23—26 Uitenhage , 29 

„ 27 Bethelsdorp 31 

28— Oct. 1 Port Elizabeth 31 

„ 2 Sunday River 34 

3 Sidbury 34 

,, 5 Grahamstown 36 

„ 6—8 King William's Town 37 

9 Back to Grahamstown, by Fort Peddie 46 

,,10—17 Grahamstown (Second Visit) 48 

„ 18 Bathurst 52 

20 Cuyleville ; 54 

,, 21 Southwell 55 

„ 22 Grahamstown (Third Visit) 56 

„ 23 Fort Brown 57 

„ 24 Fort Beaufort 57 

„ 25 Ely 59 

Fort Hare 59 

„ 26 Woburn 60 

„ „ Auckland 60 



iv ITINERARY OP THE BISHOP 5 S VISITATION. 

Time. Place. Page 

Oct. 26 Chumie 61 

„ „ ...... Balfour, Kat River 61 

„ 27 Post Retief (ascended Winterberg Range) 61 

„ 28 Mancazana Post 62 

„ 30 Visit to Sir A. Stockenstrom 66 

„ 31 Great Fish River 67 

Nov. 1 Somerset (through Squaggas Hoek) 68 

2 & 3 Cradock (through a Karroo country, by the Great 

Fish River) 69 

7 , Macaster Fontein . 72 

„ 8 Colesberg 73 

,,13—16 Travelling 76 

,,16—20 GraaffReinet 77 

,,21—23 Travelling 79 

Sneeuwberg 80 

Buffalo River 80 

„ 24 Beaufort 81 

27 — Dec. 1 Travelling (desolate Karroo country) 84 

Zunyberg Mountains 85 

Olif ant's River 87 

Dec. 2— 5 George (Second Visit) 87 

,, 6—8 Great Braak River 89 

Goaritz River 89 

Riversdale (Second Visit) •. 89 

Port Beaufort 89 

„ 9 Swellendam (Second Visit) 90 

„ 12 Worcester 91 

„ 15 Mitchell's Pass 94 

16 Wellington 95 

ThePaarl ■. 95 

,,17—18 Stellenbosch 96 

„ 19—20 The Paarl 9? 

Malmesbury 97 

21 D'Urban 99 

Table Mountain 99 

Protea (the Bishop's House) 99 



JOURNAL 

OP A 

VISITATION THROUGH THE CAPE COLONY, 

In 1848. 



Thursday, Aug. 24, 1848. — This day I com- 
menced my first Visitation of the Diocese, intending 
to go through the Colony, and to remain out till the 
early part of December ; after which I am informed, 
that the extreme heat of the weather will compel me 
to return. May God grant that this Visitation may 
tend to the promotion of His glory, and to the ex- 
tension of the kingdom of His dear Son in this deso- 
late and long-neglected portion of the vineyard. 

I start far from well, and in some fear of a recur- 
rence of my late severe illness : my medical man, 
however, hopes that the journey may benefit my 
health. My mode of travelling is in a good plain 
English wagon, drawn by eight horses ; we carry 
with us abundant provisions for the way, in case we 
should either be stopped by rivers, or not able to find 
accommodation ; my wagon too is so arranged that I 
can by letting down the back of my seat make a 
tolerable bed for myself. 

B 



2 



SANDILEET. COLE'S PASS. 



I slept the first night at Mr. Cloete's, Sandileet, 
where I was entertained very hospitably. He is 
anxious to build a Church near his house. The 
plan he had procured was not a very correct one. I 
furnished him with another, and promised him 251. 
from my fund, and 10Z. as my private subscription. I 
also urged him to apply to Government for assist- 
ance, both towards the Church, and support of a 
Clergyman. 

Friday, Aug. 25. — Started at six o'clock in the 
morning. I do not find wagon travelling so un- 
pleasant as I expected. It is rather rough work, 
but I have managed to read. We breakfasted at the 
foot of Sir Lowry Cole's Pass, just beyond the vil- 
lage of Somerset, where there is a Dutch Church 
and a Wesleyan Chapel, with two Missionaries for 
the coloured people. * * * 

I hope to form the villages of Erste River, Stellen- 
bosch, and Worcester, into a parish. After break- 
fast I walked in advance of the wagon over Sir 
L. Cole's Pass. The views were very fine, but the 
day, though a brilliant one, was not so clear for dis- 
tant views as I could have wished. Slept at Bot 
River. Our whole journey lay amongst the moun- 
tains. The views could scarcely be called magni- 
ficent, yet they were interesting. We passed very 
few houses in which I did not find English labourers. 
There are very few patches of cultivated ground 
all the way. I saw for the first time a man riding 
an ox. 

Saturday, Aug. 26.— Started a little after six 



CALEDON. 



3 



o'clock, after a good night's rest. Our route to-day- 
still lay through the mountains which, as we reached 
Caledon, dwindled down to hills. The country is 
very bare. Here and there only there are a few 
cultivated patches. The general features, however, 
are like our English moors. There is scarce a tree 
to be seen. As I approached Caledon, I met a ser- 
vant whom Captain Mackay, the resident Magistrate, 
had sent to watch for me. We drove to his house, 
where he had kindly prepared breakfast for me, there 
being no inn in the place. After breakfast I walked 
round the village, to look for a site for the proposed 
Church. The Municipality offer land, also Captain 
Mackay. I fixed upon sites, and requested them to 
have the consent of the Municipality given formally, 
in time for our Meeting on Tuesday. There are 
many English in this neighbourhood, and it is an 
important post for a Church and Clergyman. In 
the afternoon I drove on (four hours) to Captain 
Ranier's, where I am to have my head quarters for a 
day or two, while visiting the District. The country 
is still open, and moorish, with mountains in the 
distance. The season is much later here than about 
Cape Town. Here is scarce a flower in blossom. I 
find my men pass me off on the road as a very great 
man. To-day they drew up near some boors, who 
were outspanning, and waited for some time as I did 
not look out of my wagon ; Ludwig came to tell 
me they wanted to look at me. * * * 

Sunday, Aug. 27. — I find Captain Ranier and his 
family good Christian people. We have been dis- 



4- 



CALEDON. 



cussing plans for providing for the spiritual wants 
of the District, and I hope we shall be able to get 
two Churches and a Clergyman. We had Divine 
service this morning in Captain Earner's dining 
room and hall ; there were 70 persons present, and 
several from the neighbourhood could not attend. I 
baptized two children after the second Lesson ; there 
were fifteen communicants, several were deeply 
affected. We had again a full service in the even- 
ing, and a very good congregation, Captain Ranier 
leading the singing ; there were many coloured 
people present ; Captain Ranier reads prayers and a 
sermon every Sunday morning and evening, and he 
has good congregations. The nearest Church and 
Clergyman are at Capetown, three days' journey 
from this place. We have already 700/. for our two 
Churches, and hope to raise 1,000/., which will be 
the least amount for which they can be built. 

Monday \ Aug. 28. — This morning brought a 

most unexpected letter from Mr. — , saying 

that he purposed leaving this part of the Colony, and 
therefore must withdraw his subscription of 100/., 
and his grants of land. Though discouraged, we are 
resolved not to be cast down, but to make the greater 
exertions. Went to Colonel Dulton's, where we 
dined and slept. He takes up the Caledon Church 
very warmly. 

Tuesday^ Aug. 29. — Went in early to Caledon ; 
found a good number, chiefly of the middle classes, 
come in for our Meeting. We had, I think, more 
than 50 persons present ; nearly 120/. was raised in 



CALEDON. 



5 



the room for a Church. It was decided to adopt 
one of the designs I had with me, likely to cost 600/., 
and calculated to hold 200 souls ; many promised to 
collect in the District, and to write home to friends 
in England to assist ; several pledged themselves 
also to increase their subscriptions, if needed ; 
others offered timber, reeds, &c. ; others, again, pro- 
mised to draw materials : we also addressed a strong 
memorial to Government, praying for help : an ex- 
cellent spirit prevailed throughout the Meeting, 
and all seemed thankful there was a prospect of 
having their spiritual wants supplied. Several per- 
sons, after the Meeting, spoke to me with much feel- 
ing of their wretched state in the entire absence 
of all means of grace, and contrasted their condition 
with what it had been in this respect in our own 
dear mother land, and in the bosom of our mother 
Church. One man brought two of his daughters 
twenty-five miles, and entreated me to confirm them. 
He had taken them down to Capetown to be con- 
firmed, and they had been for some time under 
Mr. Lamb's instruction, who wrote to me in their 
favour ; my lengthened illness compelled them to 
return : after some conversation with, and examina- 
tion of them, I confirmed them. I also baptized two 
children of English emigrants. Captain Mackay, 
the resident Magistrate, gave us luncheon after the 
Meeting ; and in the evening I returned with Captain 
Eanier to Nethercourt, thankful for the result of the 
day, and in good hope that we shall shortly see 



6 



GENADENDAL. 



the two Churches springing up, so as to become a 
blessing to this desolate land. I received a note to 
say that Mr. Green had arrived by the Oriental^ 
emigrant ship, and would follow me to act as 
chaplain. 

Wednesday , Aug. 30. — Breakfasted this morning 
with Mr. Bay ley, at the Oaks. Rode on afterwards 
about eighteen miles to the Moravian Institution, at 
Genadendal. The brethren and sisters received me 
very kindly. W e arrived about twelve o'clock. As it 
was their dinner hour we sat down with them ; they, 
invited me to say grace, and sit at the head of the table- 
but I requested them not to regard my presence ; they 
therefore sung their grace as usual, very beautifully. 
They gave me the chickens, and Captain Ranier the 
ham to carve, I believe, as a mark of respect. After 
dinner we went over the establishment, church, 
schools, workshop, &c. There are nearly 3,000 souls 
altogether in the place, and more than 600 children 
in the schools. There are nine young men from 
different tribes being educated as teachers, and with 
these I was pleased, though the amount of their in- 
formation did not seem great. We heard, also, the 
boys and girls read and sing, and stayed some time in 
the infant school. There are eight brethren, with 
their wives and children ; with several of these I 
was much pleased, and the more so because they did 
not appear to wish to exaggerate the amount of good 
done, or deny the defects of the Institution. Many 
of the Dutch, and some of the English find fault 



GENADENDAL. 



7 



with the system as injurious to the farmers. They 
complain that they cannot get labourers to remain 
with them more than a month or two. To this I 
think it must be replied, that, when treated with 
kindness and consideration by their masters, they 
will be found as willing to live with them as at Ge- 
nadendal. Captain Ranier, who lets his people see 
that he cares for them, making them comfortable, 
and looking after their moral and religious training, 
reading the Scriptures to them every morning before 
he goes to work, finds no difficulty, and several of 
these people are coming to reside on his farm. The 
Missionaries at Genadendal told me that there was 
but one genuine Hottentot in the Institution, so 
greatly has the race decreased. I was much sur- 
prised to find so miserable a library for the brethren's 
own use. There were scarcely any valuable books in 
it. Would to God the Church in this Colony could 
point to a work of equal importance with this, as the 
result of her own labours in the cause of Christ 
among the Heathen. The Institution is situated in 
a broad valley just under the mountains. The Mis- 
sionaries are endeavouring to improve the place by 
planting. It is a peaceful, quiet spot. I bade fare- 
well to it with regret, and promised to visit it again. 
The little children ran after our horses some way, 
crying out, " Dag our ! " " Dag Mynheer!" (Good day, 
uncle ; Good day, Sir.) * * We returned to 
dinner at Mr. Bayley's, and came home in the dark. 

Thursday, Aug. 31. — Rode off in the morning 
to the mountains, to see the forests, and to fix upon 



8 



ZONDER-ENDE. 



a site for the Zonder-Ende Church. We had some 
fine views from the hills ; ordered some wood to be 
cut down for the Church, and paid several visits, 
both to the Dutch farmers and English labourers. 
All seemed rejoiced at the prospect of a Church, and 
promised to contribute to it. We fixed upon a spot 
on Linders Farm, where there are 150 coloured 
people, and, at no great distance, about the same 
number of English people. 

Friday, Sept. 1. — Started at half-past six this 
morning, in Captain Earner's carriage, having sent 
my wagon on last evening to Mr. Vine's, where we 
breakfasted this morning : he has a large family, and 
several English labourers ; and all are living without 
the public means of grace ; they will, however, be 
only six miles from our new Church. After break- 
fast we journeyed on, passing through a country in 
all respects similar to that we had left ; an open 
hilly country, covered with heath and bushes, capa- 
ble of sustaining a much larger population than at 
present occupies it. A great portion of this land 
might be brought under the plough, and the remain- 
der would support a great deal more stock than there 
is at present upon it. In the distance, the mountains 
may be seen stretching all the way to Swellendam. 
There are scarcely any trees, but a succession of 
slopes and hills. We outspanned at another English 
farmer's, Mr. Twentyman, who has also several 
English families, and no Church or Clergyman of 
their own within 100 miles. In one of the cottages 
we found a poor English child of, we were told, 



SWELLENDAM. 



9 



about twelve years of age, lying in bed, apparently 
dying. She did not pray, and said she could not ; 
she knew not what prayer was, nor could she read. 
We spoke seriously to the parents upon their neglect, 
and, poor child ! we all knelt down, and prayed for 
her. Her parents seemed much affected. We were 
detained here for some time, waiting for some chil- 
dren whom their parents anxiously desired us to 
baptize. This made us rather late. On the road we 
met the post, and received a very kind note from 
Dr. Robertson, the zealous Dutch Minister of Swel- 
lendam, inviting me to take up my quarters at his 
bouse during my stay there. He had previously 
placed his Church at my disposal, for afternoon service 
on Sunday. The only opportunity our people here 
have of attending public worship is an afternoon 
service, established by Dr. R. especially for the 
English people. They have no Church or Clergy- 
man of their own within 150 miles. God grant 
that my visit there may lead to a change in these 
things. Several of our people have joined the Dutch 
communion ; but some are, I understand, still anxious 
to remain in the bosom of their mother Church, and 
have declined to forsake her, even though she seems 
to have forsaken them. About ten miles from Swel- 
lendam, and just as it was beginning to grow dusk, we 
met Dr. Robertson, who had most kindly driven out 
to meet me. We got into his light carriage, and 
arrived at his house about eight o'clock, where he had 
provided dinner for us, and invited some of the 
leading English to meet us. I had a good deal of 



10 



SWELLENDAM. 



conversation with him. He is evidently a very intel- 
ligent, earnest, active man, and is most deservedly 
respected by every one. Indeed his character stands 
as high as any Dutch Minister in the Colony. I feel 
the great delicacy both of my position, and of the state 
of things here in general. May God give me grace so 
to act and speak, as not in any way to compromise 
His truth, nor yet give offence to those who differ; 
and may He dispose the hearts of His people here to 
make efforts for the erection of the House of God, 
-and the support of a fixed Ministry. 

Saturday, Sept. 2. — We held our Meeting 
to-day in the vestry of the Dutch Reformed Church. 
It was not well attended, many of the members of 
the Church holding back as I was given to under- 
stand, lest their presence should be considered as a 
slight upon Dr. Robertson. There was a long discus- 
sion as to what was to be done. The circumstances 
of this place are very peculiar. The Church peo- 
ple have been left entirely to themselves. They 
know not how to procure a pastor ; one gentleman 
did engage a Clergyman as tutor to his children, but 
he did not give satisfaction, or undertake any 
pastoral work. A separation soon took place, and 
Dr. R. took pupils. He has been the friend, the 
adviser, and the minister of our people. There is, 
therefore, naturally no sanguine feeling about our 
Church people, and they feel timid, and afraid to 
act, and wish, before committing themselves, to see 
how a Clergyman will act. They however formed a 
Committee for raising funds, both for Clergyman 



SWELLENDAM. 



II 



and Church. Upwards of 601 a-year for five years 
was subscribed in the room, and the parties under- 
take to raise 100Z., in the hope that Government 
will give another 3 00Z. a-year. At present the 
Government School-room will be used for Divine 
service. Considerable confidence was expressed that, 
if the Clergyman gave satisfaction, a church would 
speedily be raised for him ; and I have no doubt 
that such would be the case. They fixed on a 
plan for the Church. Whoever comes here w r ill 
have a very important and difficult post ; he will 
need a truly Christian spirit, much judgment and 
discretion, activity, zeal, patience, temper — and a 
disposition to conciliate, without compromise. Seve- 
ral persons applied for confirmation. Dr. Robertson 
spoke of them as highly respectable people, and 
religiously disposed ; both Mr. Green and myself 
therefore undertook to prepare them as well as we 
could during the day, and I resolved to hold a con- 
firmation to-morrow. 

Sunday, Sept. 3.— Dr. Robertson this morning 
accepted in a most Christian spirit my excuses for 
not attending his services. At twelve o'clock, imme- 
diately after the Dutch morning service, we held our 
first service ; as we were to hold a second service, of 
which only notice had been given at three o'clock, I 
was unable to have the full morning service ; I 
therefore commenced with the Litany, and after that 
confirmed the candidates. We had a table brought 
out in front of the pulpit, which served as our 
Altar. There was a very respectable congregation, 



12 



SWELLENDAM. 



and they were very attentive. At three o'clock our 
service began, of which previous notice had been 
given. The Church was full ; we had evening prayer, 
and Holy Communion ; I preached ; thirteen com- 
municants presented themselves ; most, or all of 
those who, having no Minister of their own, are in 
the habit of communicating with the Dutch Church, 
did not present themselves. Instead of being sur- 
prised at this, I am more surprised at the hold 
which the Church still has upon the minds of so many 
of her children, whom she has utterly abandoned. 
I am surprised, I own, to find them under these 
circumstances raising 100/. a-year for five years for 
a Clergyman, readily and cheerfully. May God in 
His mercy raise up a faithful zealous pastor for this 
long-neglected portion of the vineyard. My visit 
here has been a most interesting — most painfully 
interesting one. 

Monday, Sept. 4. — I trust there is some chance 
of our getting two Clergymen here— one for this 
place, and one for Port Beaufort, to educate Mr. 
Barry's children, and others ; and to minister to 
the people there, and at Riversdale. I have also 
engaged to furnish the plans for a small Church 
there. "We started this morning in Mr. Barry's cart, 
having sent our wagon on, and breakfasted with 
Captain Buchanan, who has a very pretty place, 
just facing the mountains. * * * * 

Tuesday, Sept. 5.- — Started at six in the morning ; 
outspanned at nine, lighted a fire on the grass, 
and Jiad breakfast. I enjoyed our primitive mode 



RIVERSDALE. 



13 



of living very much. Arrived at Hiversdale about 
one o'clock. The village is prettily situated, and 
is increasing rapidly ; our whole route to-day lay 
through the same kind of country as before ; but 
the hills are more beautiful, rising one above another 
with a fine mountainous background. I observe the 
heaths are beginning to blow. The acting Magis- 
trate, Mr. Hudson, rode out, with an English gentle- 
man, about three miles to meet us, and we found 
comfortable quarters at Yilliers. There were only 
three persons at our Meeting, these three gentlemen 
having resolved themselves into a Committee for the 
erection of a Church and supply of a Clergyman ; 
but it was determined in the first instance to raise a 
sufficient sum to entitle them to have service once a 
month from the Clergyman of Port Beaufort and 
Swellendam, and they thought they could raise 6Q/. 
a -year. After the Meeting we went into the village 
to call upon the English people, and made out that 
there were about 100. Some of them seemed very 
respectable people, and most anxious for a Clergy- 
man. We also inspected the Government School, 
where there were ten children. The coloured chil- 
dren are not allowed to come till three o'clock, when 
the white are dismissed ; were this not done, the 
Dutch would withdraw their children. We called 
on the Dutch Clergyman, who seemed a respectable 
man. I was unwilling to quit this village without 
some religious service, our people having no Church 
of their own within 200 miles. I therefore sent 
Mr. Green after dinner to ask for the use of the 



14 



GOARITZ RIVER. 



magistrate's office, and we let the English people 
know that there would be evening prayer and 
sermon at half-past seven. "We had a full room ; Mr. 
Green read the prayers, and I preached to them 
extempore for half-an-hour ; they were very at- 
tentive. 

Wednesday, Sept. 6. — Left Riversdale at six 
o'clock this morning ; breakfasted at a Dutch farm, 
La Grange (two hours) ; outspanned at Tiger Fon- 
tein (two hours) ; slept at Gronge's Stink River 
(four hours). The country, in its general features, 
was very similar to what we had passed through. 
In some parts, however, as at the Goaritz River, 
(which really is a river,) it is more beautiful, though 
there is a great want of trees. The natural roads 
are for the most part excellent, though in many places 
very rough. At the Goaritz River we all had to 
keep the wagon from rolling over, by pulling it 
straight with a rope. We are very fortunate in the 
beautiful weather we have had ; one day's rain would 
probably have kept us several days on the banks of 
this river. We cannot, therefore, be too thankful for 
the lovely weather we have enjoyed. I have now 
been out a fortnight, and every day has been fine. 
We have passed very few houses : the land, however, 
is clearly capable of bearing a much larger popula- 
tion, and all that is wanting is capital and industry. 

Thursday, Sept. 7. — Passed a sleepless and excited 
night. I had hoped air and exercise, and fatigue, 
were restoring my nerves, but I find I am not so well 
as I imagined. Started at nine for Mossel Bay, 



MOSSEL BAY, 



w 



where we arrived at half-past twelve o'clock. About 
seven miles from the bay we were met by Mr. Marsh, 
the resident 'magistrate, Mr. Yan Reynen, the Dutch 

Minister, and Mr. . No one else came to meet 

us, Mr. Marsh having invited all the principal resi- 
dents to a sumptuous tiffin. He told me most of the 
English were, he thought, Dissenters ; but falling in 
with a Mr. Elliot before dinner, who I understood 
was a Churchman, I soon found from him that there 
were many people who were anxious for a Church and 
Minister. He told me he would guarantee 100/. 
a-year to a Clergyman, provided he would take 
pupils. I encouraged him to form a committee, to 
raise the means for Church and Pastor ; the committee 
to correspond with me, and memorialize Government 
for 100Z. a-year. I doubt not I shall soon hear from 
him on the subject. We left at four, and arrived 
about half-past five at Class Neegers Hartenbosch. 
The situation of Mossel Bay is very beautiful. 
The bay itself is a fine one ; and the mountains 
which surround it, and lie at the back of George, are 
bold and commanding. Upon leaving the bay, the 
valley and river of Hartenbosch opened out very 
beautifully ; and as the sun was just setting, and 
there was a little rain, we had before us a scene very 
like one of Claude's. After taking a lesson in Dutch, 
by reading the Testament with some of the family 
here, we retired early to prepare for our journey on 
the morrow. 

Friday, Sept. 8. — We had a magnificent view of 
the mountains, with the early sun upon them, this 



16 



GEORGE. 



morning, during the first part of our day to the Great 
Braack River, where we outspanned, and lighted our 
fire for a country breakfast, the freedom and inde- 
pendence of which we greatly enjoyed. Afterwards 
we ascended the hills before us by a near road, 
through a fine part of the valley. The roads in this 
part of the country are being fast improved. What 
is most wanting is the bridging of the rivers ; many 
of those we have passed would, with a little rain, be 
so swollen as to detain travellers for days f even as it 
is our horses were on several occasions nearly com- 
pelled to swim. The road from these hills to George 
lies over a fiat uncultivated country. I was disap- 
pointed in the appearance of George, which is a long 
straggling village, containing about 2,000 souls. There 
is a large ugly unfinished Dutch church, to which Go- 
vernment has just given 1,000Z., a Romish chapel, 
and at least one other of no definite sect. Mr. Scott the 
English Clergyman, Mr. Aspinel the Civil Commis- 
sioner, and several other gentlemen were waiting to 
receive us. We had very comfortable quarters at a 
lodging-house ; a good many people called, and as we 
had an hour or two to spare, and I knew not when 
we should have another, I went to return their calls, 
to look into the schools, and to see some of the 
members of the English Church, Mr. Scott accom- 
panying us. He afterwards dined with us, and we 
took tea at his house : on returning to our lodgings 
I found Mr. Dulhie had arrived from the Knysna, 
accompanied by Mr. Bull, the Catechist of the place, 
to conduct me to his house. 



GEORGE. 



17 



Saturday, Sept. 9. — A sleepless night, notwith- 
standing a strong opiate, from the excitement of 
yesterday, consequently I felt very stupid all day. 
At eleven o'clock we held our Confirmation in the 
Dutch Church ; 35 were confirmed. I was pleased 
with their reverent and devout manner ; some seemed 
much affected. After service was over we held a 
meeting in the Court* house about our new Church. 
It was well attended, and a plan for the Church 
was adopted, though the funds as yet contributed 
are not sufficient for its erection. I also brought 
under the notice of the meeting the Church 
Society we have just formed, and distributed copies 
of the rules. We cannot, however, expect many 
contributions to general purposes while local efforts 
are so greatly required ; but I trust that, when 
our Churches are built, we shall be able to raise 
funds for Missions, Churches, Schools, &c. Being 
unable to cross in the afternoon, owing to the rain, to 
see the Montagu Pass, I spent my time in writing, 

and in visiting a few more of our Church people. 

* # * # 

I grieve to see the heart-burnings and strife which 
exist between the English and Dutch communion in 
this place. 

Sunday, Sepi. 10. — Preached this morning in 
the Dutch Church to an excellent congregation ; 
administered the Holy Communion to about twenty- 
five persons : spoke plainly, but affectionately to 
them upon their own want of love, and earnestly 
entreated them to cultivate a spirit of charity. In 

c 



18 



GEORGE. PAKALSDORP. 



the afternoon I examined Mr. Scott's Sunday School, 
and in the evening preached again to about two 
hundred Dutch and English. The people seemed 
very attentive, and most of the Dutch understand the 
English language. 

Monday, Sept. 11.— * . * * * 

After breakfast, I went to examine the Government 
School, but had not time to go through it. I thought 
their religious knowledge very imperfect. My wagon 
being pronounced too weak for the Knysna roads, 
I was obliged to hire another, which was taken out 
by oxen, which were kindly furnished by several 
gentlemen. "We started on horseback about eleven, 
accompanied by several gentlemen, who wished to 
ride part of the way with us. We went a little way 
out of our road to visit the Missionary Institution of 
Pakalsdorp. There are about 750 souls here, living 
as usual in mud or wattle huts ; from 150 to 200 
of these have been baptized, the remainder are still 
Heathen, though many of them attend the public 
services which the Missionaries hold. I here found 
the most Church-like looking edifice I have seen in 
the Colony. It has a tower of very respectable pro- 
portions, and is built entirely of stone, and without 
a covering of plaster, which disfigures every other 
Church I have yet seen. There is an old Missionary 
here with his daughter, and a younger Missionary ; 
the old man is 80, and past working. The universal 
opinion in this neighbourhood is, that the time has 
come for giving up these institutions, and allowing 
them to merge into the parochial system ; but I am 



BELVIDERE. KNYSNA. 



19 



inclined to think that a few years must first elapse, 
allowing for a considerable increase of Clergymen 
during that period. There are two schools here, 
but the children had gone to their dinners. The 
Institution is built on Government land, a consider- 
able tract of which they are allowed the use of. 
The London Missionary Society also, whose agents 
they are, possesses, adjoining to the Institution, a farm 
of about 10,000 acres of land. After leaving this, 
we rode over hill and dale, and through some tine 
wooded valleys and rivers, to Mr. Dumbleton's, a 
distance of about 20 miles : much of the country 
put me in mind of our Yorkshire coast, but we have 
not in England the fine range of mountains which 
accompanied us all the way on our left. After 
arriving at Mr. D.'s, I walked out with him for a 
mile or two to look at some lakes, formed partly 
by the sea, and partly by rivers : the scenery was 
picturesque, but they are by no means equal to our 
English lakes. 

Tuesday, Sept. 12. — Left Mr. D.'s after break- 
fast, and rode through a beautiful country, thirty 
miles to Mr. Duthie's, at Belvidere, on the banks 
of the Knysna : our route lay at first along the 
borders of the chain of lakes which I saw yesterday. 
We had some very beautiful views of them up and 
down from several points. After leaving them we 
travelled through a sandy valley, covered with heath, 
geranium, and a variety of flowers not yet fully blown, 
till we arrived at a forest. Here I found finer tim- 
ber than I had yet seen in the Colony, The yellow 



20 



BELVIDERE. KNYSNA. 



tree, a most useful wood for building purposes, grows 
to a large size, and is a very picturesque tree ; it is 
usually covered with a kind of pendant moss, which 
improves its appearance. Here also we found the 
wild vine growing over forest trees, and spreading 
its arms like the vine when cultivated. It is, how- 
ever, a different plant, and produces a sour kind of 
fruit, which is preserved like the cherry in brandy, 
and is used instead of currant jelly. The forest too 
was covered with a kind of sapling which shoots from 
the ground, and lays hold on the branches of great 
trees. It has the appearance of a thick rope fasten- 
ing the trees to the ground, and is called the monkey 
ladder. The forest abounds with monkeys and 
baboons, but we did not see any. The Castor-oil 
plant grows here in great abundance ; I observed 
several new flowers, none of them however of any 
great beauty. We crossed several rivers, some of 
which were deep, their banks are high and rocky, 
and well wooded. In one my horse was nearly driven 
to swim, the water pouring over the tops of my horse- 
guard boots. We arrived about sunset at Belvidere, 
and had a beautiful view of the Knysna : here there 
is a fine sheet of water, which forms the basin of a 
harbour, but the beauty of the scene is somewhat 
spoiled by the low land which rises' up in several 
places, giving the lake the appearance of being 
marshy. The harbour would I believe be a fine 
one, were it not for the entrance which is very 
narrow, and lies between high rocks. I like, how- 
ever, what I have seen of this neighbourhood very 



PORTLANDS. 



21 



much ; it is a fine country, and lias great capabilities ; 
it is better wooded too than any part of the Colony I 
have yet seen. Mr. Duthie's house borders on the 
lake, and has a beautiful prospect before it. Mr. 
Bull (catechist) who is also tutor to Mr. D.'s chil- 
dren, is happily situated in this excellent family, and 
is esteemed by all for his zeal and earnestness. 

Wednesday, Sept. 13. — After breakfast this morn- 
ing we rode in a heavy rain to Portlands, ten miles, 
where Mr. Bull had fixed for me to hold a service ; 
and where he had some candidates for baptism. The 
place is one of his monthly stations. Mr. Duthie 
dressed me out in a very long Mackintosh, and I 
exchanged my hat for an oil-skin jockey cap, which 
had no very episcopal appearance. Notwithstanding 
all, however, I soon got wet. The country we passed 
through was very beautiful, and we had some good 
views of the water, as the weather partially cleared 
up. There w r ere about thirty persons present, most 
of them coloured, to whom I preached extempore, 
as simply as I could, from Ephes. ii. 1 — o : we 
returned to Belvidere by four o'clock, and we nau. 
another service in the evening, when I again 
preached : we had also an adult heathen prepared 
for baptism by Mr. Bull, whom I baptized. 

Thursday Sept. 14. — After breakfast walked out 
with Mr. Duthie, to determine upon the site of the 
Belvidere Church. We fixed upon a beautiful spot, 
commanding a very fine view of the lake. Mr. 
Duthie also gives land for a parsonage. We de- 
cided upon one of Butterfield's plans for the Church, 



22 



PLETTENBERG BAY. 



which is to hold 100 ; but is capable of enlargement. 
At one o'clock, four gentlemen came over from the 
other side, dressed in their Jerseys, and with flags 
flying, to row me over the lake. As we arrived at 
Melville various flags were hoisted. After calling 
upon several of the inhabitants we rode out, a tolera- 
bly large party, to Mr. Rex, and thence to Mr. 
Sutherland's, to dine and sleep. 

Friday, Sept. 15. — We started early this morning 
for Plettenberg Bay, where I am to hold two ser- 
vices, and fix upon the site of the Church. The 
morning service, when I preached, was held in Mr. 
Newdigate's house : no notice had been given, but 
we had about twenty persons present. After service 
we rode to Captain Sinclair's at the bay, for after- 
noon service ; but as no notice had been given here, 
it was found impossible to collect the people, and 
we walked on to Capt. Harker's, at the Residency, 
where I was to dine and sleep. The country be- 
tween the Knysna and Plettenberg Bay is well 
wooded and very hilly, and I think as fine a part of 
the Colony as any that I have yet seen. I observed 
here the India-rubber tree growing in one or two 
gardens. Mr. Newdigate's farm is situated in a lovely 
valley. 

Saturday, Sept. 16. — Walked out early with Capt. 
Harker, over the Residency farm. The house has a 
famous hall which as a church would hold 200 
people. After breakfast we mounted our horses, to 
return to Melville, where I had appointed the public 
meeting to be held. We had a very warm ride of 



MELVILLE. 



23 



twenty miles ; our meeting, which was well attended, 
passed off most satisfactorily. We shall, I trust, ere 
long have three churches in this parish, one at Bel- 
videre, one at Melville, and one at Knysna. The 
Melville Church, for which I have furnished the 
plans, is to be begun immediately, and a further 
subscription is to be raised for the support of the 
Clergyman. It already amounts to about 501 Mr. 
Sutherland, who has built a school here, has applied 
to me for a teacher. I trust I may soon be able 
to send both Clergyman and Schoolmaster to this 
district. In the evening we returned to Mr. Suther- 
land's, who had invited a large party of the neigh- 
bouring gentlemen to meet us. 

Sunday, Sept. 17. — A sleepless night — feverish 
from the extreme heat of yesterday. This day was 
also extremely warm. After breakfast, I walked 
to the school which Mr. Sutherland has just built, 
and where our services are held for the present, a 
distance of about three miles. The school-room was 
decked out with flowers, and was soon filled to over- 
flowing with a devout congregation. I observed no 
less than nine wagons, several of the Dutch families 
having come in for our services. I confirmed 27 
persons, chiefly adults, who had been very carefully 
prepared by Mr. Bull ; many both males and females 
were deeply affected, and all, I believe, felt that the 
services were exceedingly interesting; certainly a 
very solemn feeling pervaded our assembly. I could 
not help expressing my gratitude to God for the 
sight before me. A congregation of 130 souls, 



24 



AVONTEUER. LANGE KLOOF, 



30 communicants, 27 candidates for confirmation, 
where only a few months before there were no pub- 
lic means of grace, no Clergyman within 150 miles, 
no Church within 350. In the afternoon, we had 
another full congregation. I preached and bap- 
tized several children after the second lesson. 

3Ionday y Sept. 18. — Rose at five o'clock this 
morning, intending, if possible, to reach Mr. Son- 
tag's farm at Avonteuer in the Lange Kloof by even- 
ing, but doubtful whether we could accomplish it. 
We started a party of about twelve, several gentle- 
men being anxious to accompany us part of the way, 
and Mr. George Rex and Mr. Sutherland intending 
to proceed the whole way with us. After about an 
hour's journey we arrived at the Queen's forest, 
through which we were to pass by a road or path 
recently cut out by the road commissioners, under 
the direction of Mr. Sutherland. Here most of the 
gentlemen took leave of us. I could not part from 
them without thanking them, warmly and sincerely, 
for their kind attentions and hospitality during my 
short visit amongst them. From the time that I 
arrived at George till the hour I reached Avonteuer, 
I have never moved without being attended by one 
or more of these gentlemen : others have sent their 
oxen for my wagon, and I have not been permitted 
to be at any expense while amongst them. After 
parting from our kind friends, we dived into the 
forest, which extends a distance of many miles. 
Where we crossed it, it was eleven miles broad. 
The timber in this forest is very fine, and has for the 



queen's forest. 



25 



most part probably never been touched since the 
creation. Here and there we saw huge trees lying 
about and perfectly rotten ; others still standing 
were of a very large girth. The chief kind of Avood 
were the Assegai iron tree, stink wood, yellow 
wood, ash, white elm. The stink wood is, when cut 
into, perfectly black. The yellow wood is by far 
the largest tree, and is of immense size. We saw 
no wild animals, though the forest abounds in ele- 
phants, buffaloes, leopards, hyenas, wild boars, &c. 
We saw the spoor of the elephant, and his tracks, 
and we met a farmer who had seen three on Friday, 
and Mr. Sutherland saw five on his return a day or 
two after in the forest. A thunderstorm came on, 
and the lightning was very vivid ; one flash came 
close to us, and this, with the instantaneous clap of 
thunder, so frightened our horses that they bounded 
under us and ran away, Mr. Green's horse throwing 
him. After emerging from the forest, the weather 
cleared up, and w r e found ourselves in an open 
country, amidst heath bush ten or twelve feet high, 
with magnificent views all around us. The picture, 
indeed, was very striking, the clouds hanging round 
the mountains showed them to the best advantage, 
and the effect of light and shade was very beautiful. 
After riding about five hours we came to a farm, 
where fresh horses had been provided for us : we 
then proceeded over a totally different country from 
that which we had just left. For the rest of the day 
we scarce saw a tree, but passed over several distinct 
ranges of mountains. Here the scenery was very 



26 



AVONTEUER. 



wild and magnificent, and put me more in mind of 
some parts of Switzerland, than any other portion of 
the Colony I have yet seen. Night overtook us in 
the mountains, and we did not arrive at Avon- 
teuer till eight o'clock in the evening, and then 
found that our wagon, which had left for Avonteuer 
on Friday, had not yet arrived. Here we learnt 
that we had a second mercy to be thankful for, on 

this day. Mr. had set three spring guns on 

the very path by which we reached his house, to 
shoot a tiger which has of late been destroying his 
Hocks. This has been to me one of the most in- 
teresting days I have passed in the Colony. Let me 
feel thankful to Almighty God, that I am able to 
endure so much fatigue as I have done in this long 
day's journey, without suffering from it. 

Tuesday, Sept. 19. — Rose early this morning to 
visit the Missionary Institution at Avonteuer, be- 
longing to the London Society. The Missionary's 
name is Mr. Hood, who is at the same time school- 
master, doctor, and farmer. He seems an intelligent 
and right-minded man. There are about 500 people 
of all ages connected with the establishment, which 
is conducted on somewhat different principles from 
any that I have yet seen. The people have an allot- 
ment of about three acres of garden or arable land, 
which is leased to them for twenty years, with a 
right of renewal, at a rent of thirty shillings a year. 
Upon this they build their own houses ; they have 
in addition a right of pasturage over the farm, and 
others pay ten shillings a year for a smaller allot- 



LANGE KLOOF. 



27 



merit. This Institution, like all the rest, is very 
unpopular with the farmers, chiefly on the score of 
their inability to get labourers from them. The 
right is retained by the Institution of dismissing im- 
proper characters, who are however entitled to com- 
pensation for improvements. I find I shall not be 
able to visit either the London Missionary Society's 
Institution at Hankey, or the Moravian at Clarkson, 
as they both lie out of my way, and I am anxious to 
be at Uitenhage on Saturday. We drove through 
the Lange Kloof, which is a valley between mountains, 
through abominable roads to Eademeger, at Lond- 
water, where we slept. Here I found a schoolmas- 
ter who, as is frequently the case in country parts in 
the Colony, was engaged in teaching several Dutch 
farmers' families. Mr. Scott, of George, wrote to 
me some time since about receiving him into the 
Church. He was brought up a Roman Catholic, but 
partly through reading the Scriptures, partly the 
Prayer Book, and partly Blunt's Lectures on the 
Articles, became convinced of the errors of the 
Church of Rome. He had been most anxious to be 
confirmed by me at George, but was taken ill upon 
the road ; I therefore confirmed him this evening, 
and gave him some Prayer Books, out of which he 
has been in the habit of teaching his Dutch pupils, 
and which he uses in performing service on Sun- 
days ; which he has been in the habit of doing. The 
poor man seemed very thankful, and very earnest 
about himself, and is a striking instance of the 
way in which God makes up by extraordinary 



28 



LANGE KLOOF. ST. FRANCIS BAY. 



methods the grace that cannot be supplied by ordi- 
nary means. Mr. Scott spoke very well of him, as 
did Mr. George Rex, who knew him well. 

Wednesday, Sept. 20.— An early start at six 
o'clock. Our road still lay through the Lange Kloof, 
and was, if possible, worse than our yesterday's 
route. The only object of interest to-day was the 
sight of some Kaffir cranes, which are elegant and 
beautiful birds. About the middle of the day we passed 
from the Lange Kloof to the Kromme River, and 
at the same time from the George to the Uitenhage 
district. We passed several farms, with a scattered 
population. The general features of the country are 
like yesterday's — a valley lying between high and 
bare hills. 

Thursday , Sept. 21. — Rose at five ; outspanned 
for breakfast at ten o'clock at Eschenbosch. Roads 
still very bad ; country somewhat tame. Outspanned 
again at two at Moulinans, and arrived at six at 
Human, where we slept. The weather is still beau- 
tiful, and our roads have greatly improved, the 
country not having been torn up by the rains. 

Friday, Sept. 22. — Breakfasted this morning at 
Captain Boys', St. Francis Bay. He and his sister 
Mrs. Macintosh, with their families, are separated 
from the public means of grace by a distance of fifty 
miles. Captain Boys reads on Sundays the service 
of the Church. They seemed anxious about a Clergy- 
man, and the education of their children. I baptized 
their youngest child. Captain Boys rode on with us 
to Mr. Barnard's, where we had luncheon. The 



UITENHAGE. 



29 



country this day has been flat and uninteresting, till 
we passed the Kamtoos river, when we entered 
upon a hilly and well wooded country ; we crossed 
the Kamtoos by a ferry ; the wind blowing strong, 
and the tide rolling in, we had a somewhat rough 
passage ; we slept at Field-Cornet Newkirk's. 

Saturday, Sept. 23. — The first part of this day's 
journey was performed with oxen, the road being 
very difficult and precipitous ; the views, however, 
were very beautiful, especially in passing the Kloof 
Bosch river. After passing through a well wooded 
and mountainous country for two hours, we arrived 
at an extensive plain, on which we outspanned for 
breakfast, near a muddy stream, which supplied us 
with water for our tea. This plain continued till 
we arrived near Uitenhage, which lies very prettily 
just under the hills. We reached our very comfort- 
able quarters at about half-past one, accompanied by 
the civil commissioners, Mr. Bennett and Mr. Cope- 
man, who had ridden out to meet us. We walked 
in the afternoon about the village, to fix upon a site 
for the Church ; and my evening was spent in re- 
plying to the large packet of letters which I found 
awaiting my arrival. 

Sunday, Sept. 24. — Our service in the morning 
was held as usual in the Court House, where about 100 
were present. I preached from Luke xiv. 27. " And 
whosoever doth not bear his cross, and come after 
me, cannot be my disciple." In the evening we held 
service in the Dutch Church, which I was informed 
would be lent if wished. I preached again to a large 



30 



UITENHAGE. 



and attentive congregation. My motive in using 
the Dutch Church was the hope that it might lead 
to a kindlier state of feeling than, unhappily, exists 
in this place. 

Monday, Sept. 25. — We held our Confirmation 
this morning at 12 o'clock in the Dutch Church. There 
were fourteen candidates, a very small number consi- 
dering the amount of the English population here. The 
Church was quite full, and many of the poor coloured 
people were standing round the door. I grieve that 
the prejudices which exist so strongly in other parts 
of the Colony, with respect to the coloured people, 
should be found here also, and that they should not 
be admitted to worship together with their white 
brethren, and to partake of all Christian ordinances 
with them. The feeling which keeps them at a dis- 
tance is utterly unchristian, and those who indulge 
in it cannot look for God's blessing. At two o'clock 
I attended the Meeting of the parishioners, of which 
I had given notice in the Town Hall. I brought 
before them the subject of their Church, Clergyman's 
stipend, Churchyard, Church Society, &c. * * * 
Dined in the evening at Mr. Tennant's, civil com- 
missioner, who had invited a party of gentlemen to 
meet me. 

Tuesday, Sept 26.— * *".♦:• * 
At four o'clock I held a Meeting of the Church 
Building Committee, when I laid before them my 
suggestions as to the course to be immediately 
pursued with reference to the Church, and their 
Minister's stipend ; and also with relation to some 



BETHELSDORF. PORT ELIZABETH. 31 



other points. These were unanimously adopted, 
and will, I trust, be shortly acted upon. Dined 
in the evening with the Judge, who came into 
the village this morning on circuit, and called to 
invite me. 

Wednesday, Sept. 27. — Wrote letters very early. 
After breakfast I went with Mr. Copeman to 
examine the Dutch School, and the Government 
School. Paid a short visit to the Court ; then made 
some calls ; and started at one o'clock for Port 
Elizabeth. In our way visited the Missionary In- 
stitution at Bethelsdorf. The Society here (London) 
have about 24,000 acres of land. The village con- 
sists of about 300 people, who have no other employ- 
ment than attending to their cattle, there being 
scarcely any land fit to be cultivated on the farm. 
People seem to be dissatisfied with it. * * . * 
We arrived at Port Elizabeth before six, and met 
Mr. M'Cleland, Mr. Herries, Mr. Frere, &c, who 
were waiting to receive us. Port Elizabeth has 
more of the appearance of an English place than any 
we have seen since we left Capetown : it reminds 
me forcibly of some of the new settlements spring- 
ing up in so many places in our mother land, and is 
evidently rapidly rising in importance. I felt quite 
cheered at seeing anything so English ; but my 
spirits were soon cast down by hearing that Church 
matters were not in a comfortable state. 

Thursday, Sept. 28. — Early part of day spent in 
receiving visitors, surveying the town, with a view 
to the selection of sites for future Church, Schools, 



32 



PORT ELIZABETH. 



parsonage, &c. At four o'clock attended a Meeting of 
the vestry ; decided that I could not, under present 
circumstances, consecrate either Church or church- 
yard. 

Friday, Sept. 29. — Day spent in receiving the 
members of the Church, and calling upon them ; 
also endeavouring to settle some unfortunate differ- 
ences which exist here, in which I trust I have been 
in some measure successful. Laus Deo. Dined 
with Mr. M'Cleland. 

Saturday, Sept. 30. — This morning made some 
few more calls; at twelve o'clock held a Confirmation; 
fifty-two candidates presented themselves. There 
were fifty-three, but one at the last moment was 
unable to utter the solemn words " I do." I was 
glad to find that conscience withheld him, and trust 
it may please God to bring him to confess Christ 
before men at some future day. Our Confirmation 
here, as everywhere, is, I trust, likely to prove 
a blessing. Some Dissenters had issued a very 
bitter tract against the Church in general, and the 
holy service in particular, which had been distri- 
buted from house to house during my stay here. 
This probably drew a larger congregation, for our 
Church was full ; and I believe all felt the reality 
and solemnity of the sacred ceremony, so that we 
have no cause to regret the attack made upon us. 
After the Confirmation, I held a meeting of the 
members of the Church in the Town Hall, and sub- 
mitted to them my views of their wants, and the 
method of supplying them. These related to the 



PORT ELIZABETH. 



33 



erection of a school, and another church, and the 
supply of an additional Clergyman ; I trust in due 
time all these things may be secured ; I also drew 
their attention to the Church Society ; and assigned 
to them my reasons for not being able to consecrate 
either church or churchyard during this Visitation. 
I trust that before I come again the church and 
churchyard will be duly conveyed to the See, and a 
wall built round the latter. 

Sunday, Oct, 1 . — We had a crowded church this 
morning ; I preached from Matt. xxvi. 41. There 
were about seventy-five communicants ; many of 
them were deeply affected, and shed tears. In the 
afternoon I attended the Sunday School. The 
children of this school have long been in the habit 
of contributing to pious objects. They made offer- 
ings for the lepers, while the institution was in their 
neighbourhood. Afterwards they supported a blind 
man. They were at a loss to know what next to 
contribute to. About six months since, when my 
pastoral letter came out, ordering collections for the 
Missions to the Heathen, the children then all re- 
solved that they would support the Bishop's Missions, 
and to-day they brought me their offerings, amounting 
to 11 14s. I addressed the children on the subject 
of missions, and affectionately urged them, while 
endeavouring to bring the Heathen to Christ, them- 
selves to live as His true disciples. Afterwards I 
examined them in the Catechism, and was pleased 
with their answers ; and then I spoke to the Sunday 
School teacher. In the evening we had again a very 

D 



34 



SUNDAY RIVER. 



full Church, when I preached to them from 2 Cor. iv. 
3, 4 : " But if our Gospel be hid, it is hid to them that 
are lost : in whom the God of this world hath blinded 
the minds of them which believe not, lest the light 
of the glorious gospel of Christ, who is the image 
of God, should shine unto them." The old and zea- 
lous clerk said the church had never been so full 
before, nor had there been so many communicants. 
May God bless the services of the day to the good 
of the souls of this people. 

Monday, Oct. 2. — I put off my hour of departure 
this morning from six to eight o'clock, as several 
gentlemen kindly expressed a wish to accompany me 
on horseback a short distance from the town. Ac- 
cordingly, at our hour of departure, the Civil Com- 
missioner, Commander of Troops, Collector of Cus- 
toms, Hon. Mr. Herries, and several other gentlemen 
appeared to escort us ; and some others, who were 
unable to do so, came to Mr. Herries, who has most 
hospitably entertained me, to bid me farewell. I 
leave Port Elizabeth with a lighter heart than I 
entered it with, and not without hope that I may, 
ere long, see a new church, and a second Clergyman 
there. We slept at a very comfortable English inn 
at the Sunday River, about thirty-five miles distant 
from the Bay. I brought Mr. M'Cleland with me 
in my wagon, for our meeting at Graham's Town. 

Tuesday, Oct. 3. — This is my birth-day. I have 
now completed my thirty-ninth year. May I not 
forget how rapidly time is passing, and eternity 
approaching. May I live daily as one who is shortly 



SUNDAY RIVER. 



35 



to give up his account to God ! I daily feel more 
keenly niy own insufficiency for the great charge 
entrusted to me. God give me wisdom, faith- 
fulness, zeal, meekness, humility, love, patience, 
firmness, that I may be able to exercise my high 
office aright ! I often think that when the rough 
work shall be over, and there may be a call for one 
possessing higher qualifications than myself, I shall 
be laid aside, and another better qualified to exercise 
the higher and more important functions of the epis- 
copate be raised up. I pray of God to dispose of me 
| in any way (whether by life or by death), that may 
best serve for the promotion of His glory, the exten- 
sion of the kingdom of my ever-blessed Redeemer, 
and the salvation of the souls for whom He died. I 
wish to live not a day longer than I can serve Him. 

This morning, at dawn of day, a little past five, 
had my first bath in African water, taking a swim 
with Green in the Sunday River. I found no harm 
result to my head from it. We drove through a 
bushy country, in which the Kaffirs have, during 
their inroads, frequently concealed themselves for a 
considerable time. While outspanning for breakfast, 
Mr. M'Cleland fell in with a poor Hottentot in 
great distress : for three days the oxen of his wagon 
had strayed ; his master had gone in search of them, 
and had been out two nights ; he had just found him 
raving with delirium on the bank of a hill about an 
hour ofif, An English farmer and some Hottentots 
had refused to assist him ; and he was without pro- 
visions, with a wagon full of gunpowder, and fast 



36 



SIDBURY, 



giving way to despair. We went with him to look 
for his master, and found him, as he described him, 
with his wooden leg, at some distance. With diffi- 
culty we got him to his wagon ; I gave him some 
medicine, and afterwards some breakfast ; and he fell 
asleep under a bush. We told the poor Hottentot, 
who cried with excitement and gratitude, not to let 
him move till we sent oxen, to fetch them, from the 
first farm. At Quagga flat we fell in with an Eng- 
lish shopkeeper who undertook to see to them, and 
we hired some oxen for them. Mr. Thorpe came to 
meet us at the Bushman river. We dined with the 
Judge at Sidbury. The church here is neat, though 
not correct in point of architecture. It has never 
been finished, and has, I believe, not been cleaned 
since it was used as a fort, in the Kaffir war. We 
sent some people to clean the church, whom Mr. 
Green assisted. 

Wednesday, Oct. 4. — I confirmed four coloured 
children this morning. At one o'clock I held a meet- 
ing of the parishioners. * * * 

Thursday, Oct. 5. — * * * Intimated my 
intention of making alterations in the boundary of the 
parish^ which is hereafter to include Assegai Bush, 
Quagga flat, and Elephant's Hoek, where there are [ 
250 English, At half-past ten recommenced our 
journey. Our route lay over a hilly, uninteresting 
country, devoid of wood, and w r ith little bush till we 
came to Howison's Poort, which is a pretty valley. 
We arrived in Graham's Town about five o'clock. I 
like the appearance of the town, which is situated in a 



Graham's town. 



37 



basin. I took a little walk round it before dinner. 
Church well situated, but miserable in point of archi- 
tecture. The Kaffir boom abounds in the towns ; the 
tree is a very beautiful one, nearly as large as the 
oak, and covered with a rich red flower. I soon heard 
here that Sir H. Smith was to meet the Kaffir chiefs 
on Saturday. I determined, if possible, to be there 
too. The distance is eighty-five miles from Graham's 
Town, and some thought it impossible I should 
reach the place in time ; but I remembered Sir H. 
Smith had, in this colony, ridden 100 miles a day 
for a week, and determined not to give it up. After 
dinner Mr. Heavy side and myself went to call upon 
Captain Somerset, Brigade Major, who kindly pro- 
mised to furnish us with horses, and give us an order 
for relays upon the road. "We then went to the 
Judge, to excuse ourselves from dining with him, 
which we had engaged to do. * * 

Friday, Oct. 6.- — Rose at four this morning, 
and ready for a start at five ; our horses, however, 
were not quite punctual j my dress was anything but 
episcopal : white hat, leathers, and jack-boots, but 
it is impossible to be punctilious in these matters, on 
occasions like the present. Capt. Somerset accom- 
panied us a few miles : our first stage was to Trum- 
petor's Drift, where there is an officer with twenty 
men ; distance 33 miles : we arrived at ten o'clock, 
and had a cup of tea, and some bread and butter. 
Here we got fresh horses, and arrived at Fort 
Peddie about one, distance 14 miles. After leaving 
Trumpeter's Drift, our horses had to swim the Great 



38 



FORT PEDDIE. 



Fish River, and we found ourselves amongst the 
hills in a very bushy country, the scene of several 
contests between our troops and the Kaffirs. In one 
place we saw the scorched rocks where several of our 
wagons were burnt by the Kaffirs, when they took forty- 
three of them. The officer in command at Trumpe- 
ter's Drift, pointed out this, and several other spots 
interesting to us on similar accounts. Among the 
hills we found the wild jasmine, a larger flower than 
the English, and equally sweet-scented ; Strelitzia 
Regina, and several other beautiful flowers ; also 
the wild asparagus, preferred by many to the culti- 
vated plant. After ascending the hills we had an 
excellent road over the plains, and performed the 
greater part of our remaining journey at a hand 
gallop, which, notwithstanding the day was rather 
warm, I felt very exhilarating. At Fort Peddie we 
got some luncheon with Mr. Walters, son of Mr. 
Walters of Newcastle. The resident magistrate called 
upon me, and I had some conversation about a church 
and Clergyman ; two individuals offered 20 1. each 
towards a church ; I requested him to have a list of 
contributors prepared for me on my return on Mon- 
day ; also a plan of the village and country, that I 
might get a grant of land from the Governor : I 
arranged to hold a service at ten o'clock on Monday 
morning in the barrack-room, used also by the 
Methodists as a Chapel. At two o'clock we started 
again on fresh horses in full gallop, Mr. Walters ac- 
companying us ; we stopped for a few minutes at the 
Kaffir police station. There were 30 men here with 



king William's town. 



39 



their wives (some of them have two or three) and 
children. They were a very fine well-proportioned 
set of men, and are employed to recover cattle stolen 
by their countrymen. While in our pay they are 
very faithful ; there are altogether more than 200 
of them on the frontier, who with their families must 
exceed 1,000 souls. Nothing is done for their reli- 
gious improvement or the education of their children, 
except by occasional visits from the Wesleyan Mis- 
sionary. They were smoking and laughing, and 
seemed much amused with our visit to them. We 
arrived about half- past three o'clock at Line Drift, 
where we obtained fresh horses. This station is 
close by the Keiskamma river, which was low to-day, 
but exhibited manifest proofs of being at times 
swollen to a great height. We passed during the day 
by several Fingoe villages ; their huts are like pikes 
of hay, rather rotten. The Keiskamma divides the 
Colony from Kaffraria : the Kraal of the Kaffir, 
several of which we passed, is very similar to the 
village of the Fingoe. We arrived in King William's 
Town at seven o'clock in the evening, and found the 
place illuminated by bonfires : we reported ourselves 
immediately to Col. Mackinnon, who kindly offered 
me a bed, but we accepted a similar offer from Capt. 
Bissen, who could accommodate us both. I soon 
dressed, and after taking tea, went to see the Gover- 
nor, whom I was rejoiced to find well. I am very 
thankful that I came here. The officers have presented 
a memorial to the Governor about a Church ; he has 
promised them 201. The Wesleyans are making 



40 



king William's town. 



great efforts ; they, too, presented a memorial to his 
Excellency. I understand two out of the three who 
presented it said they were Churchmen, until they 
despaired of anything being done by the Church. I 
had a good deal of conversation w r ith the officers 
about the Church, and some grants of land for which 
I shall apply ; I encouraged them in their good 
work, with promises of assistance. I do not feel in 
the least tired with my day's work, but poor Mr. 
H. seems very much fatigued. 

Saturday, Oct 7. — The meeting of the Kaffir 
chieftains was fixed for twelve o'clock this day, but 
from an early hour in the morning they came pour- 
ing in with their trains of followers, some on horse- 
back, others on foot, through the various roads which, 
from different parts of the country, meet at King 
William's Town. Their appearance, dressed in their 
dirty blankets, and with long sticks or wands in 
their hands, brass armlets on their arms, and huge 
strings of beads or bone around their necks, was 
highly picturesque. Long before twelve the whole 
town was in a state of great bustle and excitement ; 
and groups of these fine looking savages were formed 
in every direction. The first chief I met was John 
Chatzo, the man whom Dr. Phillips took to England 
with him, but who afterwards was one of the fore- 
most in the late war with us, for which the Governor 
at the meeting gave him a severe rebuke. He was 
dressed in a suit like that of our London police. 
He told me that he was a Christian ; and that he 
preached himself, but had very small congregations. 



king William's town. 



41 



At about half-past eleven I went again to the Gover- 
nor's lodgings, with whom I had previously break- 
fasted, and met there the Chief Umbala, with whom 
he was conversing. He explained to him who I 
was, and tried to impress upon him what a very- 
great man a Bishop is, and how much higher his 
office is than that of other ministers of religion ; 
which he illustrated by a long and short stick. At 
twelve o'clock we walked in procession to the place 
of meeting, I on the Governor's right hand, Colonel 
Mackinnon, the Chief Commissioner, on his left. 
As we approached, the band struck up " God save 
the Queen," and the chieftains hurraed. We found 
them sitting in a kind of semicircle, beyond which 
there was another large semicircle of their swarthy 
followers. There were about thirty chiefs present, 
and three females. The chiefs were dressed in all 
kinds of odd dresses ; one was in a richly embroi- 
dered military surtout ; another in a military jacket, 
a third in a shooting jacket of velvet. Sandilli, the 
paramount chief, was in a plaid shooting jacket ; 
others were in old and cast-off clothes : one only 
wore a blanket, but none of the followers in the 
rear had any other vestment. The Governor, as 
soon as silence was restored, made a long speech to 
them, which was ably and energetically interpreted 
by Mr. Shepstone. He addressed them as chieftains 
or children ; he told them there would be no change 
in their condition — (for they had got an idea that 
there would be an alteration,) and stuck into the 
ground a great stick of office, for which they have 



42 



king William's town. 



a great respect, to show that the law would not be 
changed. He pointed out to them the evils of the 
late war, and the blessing of peace — scolded them for 
one thing, praised them for another, and addressed 
them at one time in a tone of great authority and 
sternness, and then changed his manner, using ex- 
pressions of kindness. During his speech he called 
upon the various Commissioners and the tribes to 
say how the Kaffirs had conducted themselves — they 
all expressed their entire satisfaction. Afterwards 
the Governor returned the wand of office to Colonel 
Mackinnon, an officer of very high character, and 
who has given entire satisfaction, I believe, to all 
who are under his government. He then called 
upon the chiefs to speak, if they had anything to 
say. Sandilli, Macomo, Umhala, made short speeches, 
expressive of their delight at seeing Sir Harry 
amongst his children, and regretting the absence of 
Kreli. When they had done, the Governor told 
them that the Great Father of the Christians — the 
Lord Bishop — the chief Minister, in this land, of 
the Church and religion of our Queen, who was ap- 
pointed to teach him and all in this land the way to 
Heaven, and to whom all the Christians looked up as 
their great chief (Inkosi Inkulu) in religion, had 
ridden ninety miles yesterday from Graham's Town, 
to be present at this meeting — that he had come to 
ask them how he could do them good, and especially 
to see if he could establish schools amongst them, or 
send ministers to them, and that they must talk the 
matter over amongst themselves, and promise to help 



king William's town. 



43 



to support their teachers, by giving a calf or some- 
thing else to feed them — and let him and me know 
in what way we could serve them. After this I 
addressed them to the same effect, assuring them of 
my earnest desire to see them become Christians, 
and of my readiness, in the name of the Church of 
England, to send them ministers of God to teach 
them the way to Heaven. A female chieftain and 
Umhala both replied, saying, that they never had so 
great a man of God come before amongst them, and 
they knew not what to reply ; but they wished for 
schools, and to be taught to know God. We then 
returned to Sir Harry's lodgings, and the chiefs came 
about us ; we had a long talk with them. He kept 
them some time, laughing and joking with them, 
and I served out water to them, as they were very 
thirsty. One chief, Boteman, begged hard for a 
blanket, when Sir Harry told him he was an idle 
beggar ; be made signs to me in a most ludicrous 
way to beg for linen, supposing, after all he had 
heard the Governor say of me, that I must have 
great influence with him. To get rid of him, I pro- 
mised him a blanket, and Mr. Heavyside took him 
off to buy one ; but finding he would have none but 
the best and most expensive, left him at the store 
without any. He soon, however, found me out 
again at Capt. Bissett's, and I was obliged to send 
for the best blanket. Afterwards, Sandilli came in, 
and he begged for a fine tiger skin on the sofa. 
Both asked for spirits. In the afternoon I prepared 
some ladies for confirmation, then went to baptize a 



44 



king William's town. 



child. Dined with the officers of the Rifle Brigade, 
who gave a dinner to Sir Harry. There was much 
speaking, from which I did not escape. 

Sunday, Oct. 8. — We were to have had a ser- 
vice on parade this morning at nine o'clock, when I 
was to have addressed the soldiers ; but the morn- 
ing being wet, we were obliged to give up that 
service, and content ourselves with one in the band- 
room, when I preached and administered the Holy 
Communion. "We had a congregation of about 200, 
and fifteen communicants ; our offertory collection 
for a Church exceeding 120 L At two o'clock I 
formed a Sunday School. There were upwards of 
twenty children ; some officers with their ladies un- 
dertook the management of it. In the afternoon we 
had Divine service again, and I confirmed seven can- 
didates ; in the evening I had a long conversation 
with Kreli, the paramount chief, Mr. Shepstone 
kindly interpreting. Umhala, the ablest of the 
Kaffir chiefs, was present, but he said but little, 
being very sleepy. 

Another chief, of not very good character, and 
two of Kreli's counsellors, were of the party. Kreli 
sat in the arm-chair, Umhala on a chair, the rest 
squatted on the ground ; none wore anything but a 
blanket. Kreli is a tall man, with rather a good 
countenance and a fine eye ; but he is not regarded 
as a man of any ability : he has just given cattle to 
the amount of 300 to repay the loss sustained by 
the Missionaries, in the destruction of their property 
during the late war. I asked Kreli if he were a 



king William's town. 



45 



Christian ? He replied, No. If any of his people 
were ? Yes. (He has 60,000 under him, and there 
are 70,000 in British Kaffraria, of which Sandilli is 
the paramount chief, having 25,000 under him. The 
two great tribes in British Kaffraria, are the Slambi 
and Gaika.) — Why he was not a Christian ? He was 
not good enough* — I thought he showed signs of being 
a good man, in giving cattle to pay for the missing 
property which his people had destroyed ; he seemed 
pleased. — I hoped it would not be long before he be- 
came a Christian ? He did not know what he was to 
do to become a Christian. — Repent of sin. and believe 
in Christ. What was sin ? — Here we closed the con- 
versation, for I was afraid of giving a false impres- 
sion, having no good interpreter. We conversed 
through the medium of three languages, I speaking 
to Captain Bissett in English, he to his servant girl, 
John Chatzo's daughter (a petty chief ), and she to 
Kreli in the Kaffir language. We determined to 
wait for Mr. Shepstone's arrival, whom we sent for. 
After he came, the conversation was renewed, but I 
did not think that any one of them had much know- 
ledge of the Christian religion, or cared about it. 
Kreli did not appear to believe in a future state, or 
in fact in anything. After talking with him for 
some time on religion, I found he was getting tired 
of it, so I dropped the subject. He then asked me 
about England, &c. I offered to take him there ; 
he said he was afraid of the sea. I then offered 
to educate his boy, and said he should come and live 
with me. He replied, " If so, I must take father and 



46 FORT PEDDIE. 

mother too I said, 66 Very well, come and pay me a 
visit." He asked how far it was to Capetown, and 
said it was too far. I told him, that perhaps next 
year I should pay him a visit, for I thought of riding 
up to Natal, through his country ; we separated 
about ten o'clock. The Governor had left before 
Kreli arrived ; Kreli rode after him, and the Gover- 
nor gave him a saddle and a fine horse, and one of 
his coats ; he told me afterwards he was delighted 
with his conversation with him. 

Monday, Oct. 9. — Started this morning at five 
o'clock on our return to Graham's Town, Captain 
and Mrs. Bissett accompanying us for the first few 
miles. We travelled, as before, at a gallop, and ac- 
complished nearly forty miles before half-past nine, 
when we arrived at Fort Peddie, where I found the 
Governor, and had a short conversation with him. I 
fixed upon the site of Church, school and parsonage, 
which Sir H. ordered to be immediately surveyed. 
At eleven o'clock I held service in a barrack-room, 
used by the Wesley an s for their service. It was 
quite full, and there could not have been less than 
100 souls, including the troops. I was told that all 
the whites in the place, except a Eomanist and Pres- 
byterian, were there. After the service Mr. H. 
baptized several children. I afterwards endeavoured 
to form a committee for the erection of a church, 
towards which I was offered on the spot 501. At one 
we started again, and arrived before three at Trum- 
peter's Drift ; leaving which at four o'clock, we 
reached Graham's Town about eight in the evening ; 



graham's town. 



47 



thankful for God's merciful protection of us during 
our very interesting expedition, and neither of us in 
the least degree fatigued. I am very glad that I made 
this journey, for I believe it will be for the further- 
ance of the Gospel. In all probability I should never 
have had such another opportunity of being intro- 
duced, under favourable circumstances, to these 
chiefs. Now I trust the way is paved for future 
missions of the Church of England, should we be 
able to enter upon the work. In point of fact I 
have opened a communication in one case, which ap- 
pears not unlikely to afford a promising field. But 
where are the men for this work, and where the 
means for their support ? Another reason why I am 
thankful to have gone at this particular moment to 
King William's Town is, because it was a critical 
moment for our Church. Here, as in every other 
place in this Colony, we were on the eve of losing 
our people through neglect. Churchmen, despairing 
about their own Church, were raising funds for a 
Wesleyan chapel. Out of three who waited upon the 
Governor on this account, two were churchmen. 
My visit has, I trust, roused and encouraged the 
minds of our people. Several have undertaken to 
raise funds, both in the Colony, and amongst friends 
in England ; and a church to hold 400 has been de- 
cided upon. God grant we may soon have a faith- 
ful Minister there. It is a very rising place, and a 
most important station for us to occupy. Here must 
be the centre of our future missionary operations. 
May we, at no distant day, see a band of zealous 



48 



graham's town. 



men penetrating, from this point, into some of these 
.strongholds of Satan, and rescuing from the snare of 
the Evil One, the poor Heathen who are now led 
captive by him at his will ! 

Tuesday, Oct 10. — We have prayers at half-past 
seven every morning, and prayers and sermon every 
evening, during this week. I have appointed the 
Clergy to preach in turns before me. After 
breakfast I spent some time in replying to letters. 
The remainder of the day was employed in receiving 
visitors, calling with the Judge upon Col. Somerset, 
visiting the Government School, and in Mr. Long's 
examination for Priest's Orders. 

Wednesday, Oct. 11. — Early prayers in the morn- 
ing. Confirmation with Litany at eleven o'clock. 
There were, I believe, 112 candidates. This holy 
service has excited here, as everywhere else, very 
great interest. The church was crowded, — the 
candidates much affected, — whole rows of them 
weeping and sobbing together. There were many 
dissenters present, and they seemed as much im- 
pressed as our own people. As an evidence, I may 
mention that the churchwardens in the afternoon 
addressed a letter to me, requesting a copy of my 
address to be printed, Mr. G., the editor of the 
Methodist newspaper, " having been generous enough 
to offer to print a number of copies free of expense, 
and to distribute, as well as to supply each of the 
candidates with one." Such a request I could not 
refuse. May God grant it may be of use in the pro- 
motion of His glory, and the good of souls! Mr. 



Graham's town. 



49 



Barrow preached this evening, Mr. M'Cleland yes- 
terday, and Mr. Green on Monday. Dined in the 
evening with the Judge. 

Thursday, Oct. 12. — This day I held a Synod of 
the Clergy of the Eastern province. Present, Rev. 
J. Heavyside, Rev. J. M'Cleland, Rev. H. Beaver, 
Rev. J. Barrow, Rev. W. Long, Rev. J. Green, 
Mr, Steabler, and Mr. Wheeler. We discussed the 
same topics as had been previously debated in the 
Western province — the formation of the Church 
Society, Church Ordinance, Marriage Law, Educa- 
tion Question. I issued the same injunctions, and 
offered the same recommendations. Our delibera- 
tions were conducted in the best spirit ; and I trust 
good may result from them. Mr. Beaver preached 
in the evening. 

Friday, Oct. 13. — Our sy nodical meeting was 
continued through part of this day. Made arrange- 
ments for my future progress through the Diocese, 
and wrote letters to the various Civil Commissioners, 
&c., to fix the days for my holding service in places 
where there are no Clergymen. Mr. Heavyside 
preached. Dined afterwards at a public dinner 
given by the Governor, at the Court-house, to 
150 people. He had arrived here yesterday, and 
I felt I should be wanting in respect if I de- 
clined this invitation. The dinner has, I hope, 
politically, been of use in preserving that harmony 
and unity which seemed fast disappearing in the 
Colony. 

Saturday, Oct. 14. — Conducted Mr. Long's viva 

E 



50 



graham's town. 



voce examination in the Articles and Greek Testa- 
ment. * * * 

Sunday, Oct 15. — The ordination of Mr. Long 
took place during morning prayers. Mr. Heavyside, 
Mr. M'Cleland, and Mr. Green joined in the act. 
I preached ; the congregation was a very large one, 
filling the aisle as well as the pews. At the Holy 
Communion there were 150 communicants, nearly 
double the number that ever communicated before 
at one time. The service has, I hope, been useful, 
both in reminding us, who are God's Ministers, of 
our solemn responsibilities ; and the Laity, of the 
nature and dignity of our office, and their relative 
obligations towards us. In the afternoon I attended 
the Sunday School, where there were 120 children, 
and addressed both children and teachers. Fifty of 
the children here have already become subscribers 
to our Church Missions, through the Church Society 
which I am just founding. Afterwards I went to see 
the Governor, who I heard was ill. I found him in 
bed, but much better than he had been ; and greatly 
regretting he could not attend the service of the 
Church. I had a long and interesting conversation 
with him. In the evening I again preached, Luke 
xviii. 8. 66 Nevertheless, when the Son of man 
cometh, shall he find faith on the earth ?" We 
had again a very full Church. 

Monday, Oct. 16. — Morning spent in receiving 
persons who wished to see me, and came by appoint- 
ment. At twelve o'clock we had a full Church 
meeting at the vestry. The business began by a 



graham's town. 



51 



kind address to me from the vestry, in the name of 
the Church at Graham's Town. I then brought 
under their notice the circumstances of their Church 
and churchyard, and my inability to consecrate them. 
It was agreed that they should immediately be con- 
veyed to the See. I next stated to them the nature 
of the Archdeacon's office, who shortly would come 
to reside amongst them ; and commended him to them 
as my deputy and representative. Afterwards I 
drew their attention to the question of Education. 
Undertook to obtain as speedily as possible a Clergy- 
man who should have the sole charge of the school, 
and invited them to raise 300/. for the completion of 
the building, to which I promised from my fund 
50/. A subscription was immediately entered into, 
and a committee formed for raising the funds, if pos- 
sible, before my return on Saturday next. I urged 
them to raise 100/. a year for a Curate for Mr. 
Heavyside. This they undertook to do through the 
same committee. But this led to a long conver- 
sation, in which some of the parishioners spoke their 
minds freely respecting the present state of the 
Church ; and laid sundry complaints before me, 
which were not of a grave nature ; but which will, 
I hope, as our ministerial body increases, cease to 
exist. Amongst other subjects, they complained of 
the giving up the Psalms in the Prayer Book for a 
compilation of Psalms and Hymns. Lastly, I laid 
before them the Church Society, and invited their 
assistance in carrying it out. I entered at some 
length into the nature of the association, and told 



Graham's town. 



them that I thought it best to lay before the Church 
at once all the objects to which, as a Church, I 
thought we ought to contribute — churches, schools, 
pastors, widows and orphans of ditto ; Missionaries, 
College Scholarships, training of teachers, Book 
Society. The Meeting expressed their readiness to 
co-operate with me in carrying out all the plans 
which I had proposed to them, and we broke up 
after a long discussion of very interesting topics 
at a little before three o'clock ; at four o'clock I 
dined with the officers of the 91st, who had kindly 
invited me to their mess ; at seven o'clock went to 
a tea-party given to the Governor in the Town Hall, 
and retired late, wearied with the day. 

Tuesday, Oct. 17. — Early part of the day spent 
in returning the calls of the parishioners ; started at 
two o'clock for Southwell, but a guide who under- 
took to show us the way misled us, and we soon 
found that we were on the Bathurst road ; but it 
was too late to retrace our steps, as we should have 
been benighted, and the evening turned out wet. 
We were obliged, therefore, after going over a mise- 
rable road, to sleep at a kind of public-house, only 
ten miles from Graham's Town, and twenty from 
Bathurst ; we were, however, nearly three hours in 
performing the ten miles. 

Wednesday, Oct 18. — Eose before three ; started 
in the dark at four o'clock, hoping to reach Bathurst 
before eight o'clock, and then ride to Southwell in 
time for the Confirmation. The morning however came 
on very wet, and the roads became almost impassable, 



BATHURST. 



53 



the wagon sliding in every direction as well as the 
horses. Indeed, if our steed had not been an excel- 
lent one, and very fresh, I do not think we could have 
got on at all. We escaped without an upset, though 
momentarily in danger of one. The country through 
which we passed was very pretty — a succession of 
low hills covered with bush. On every side we saw 
marks of the late Kaffir devastations. Almost all 
the farm houses seem to have been burnt down. 
We arrived at Mr. Barrow's at half-past eight ; 
when he informed us that, in the present state of the 
country, no horse could pass from thence to South- 
well ; so I was obliged to break my appointment* 
much to my regret. Bathurst is a pretty village, 
with a neat little Church, not correct indeed in point 
of architecture, but in excellent order. Spent the 
greater part of the day in writing letters home, and 
working at arrears of business. 

Thursday, Oct. 19. — At ten o'clock this morning- 
went to meet the children of the Sunday School, 
whom I addressed ; at eleven o'clock began the Con- 
secration service. There was a full Church, the 
inhabitants of the parish having come in from a con- 
siderable distance. I preached. At the Holy Com- 
munion there were upwards of twenty present. 
After service went with Mr. Barrow to visit the 
parishioners, for whom he had provided refreshments 
in the schoolroom. At three o'clock the Confirma 
tion service began. There were thirty candidates — - 
two of them mothers, with infants in their arms. 
After service at six o'clock, I held a meeting of the 



54 



CUYLEVILLE, 



parishioners in the vestry. Recommended the share- 
holders in a loan to the Church to give up their 
shares, making an offering of them to God. Those 
who were present undertook to do so. Brought 
under their notice the Church Societj^ in which 
they seemed to take an interest. Dined at eight 
o'clock with Mr. Dydson, the resident magistrate. 

Friday, Oct. 20. — Started early this morning on 
horseback for Cuyleville : a beautiful ride. The 
banks of the Kleen-Mond River are steep, and well 
covered with bush. After crossing this river the 
country was very much like an English park. The 
Mimosa here grows to a great size ; it assumes the 
appearance of a tree. Saw several beautiful flowers, 
the Strelitzia Regina, &c. The Euphorbia too grows 
here to a great size. Arrived at Cuyleville at about 
ten o'clock (fifteen miles) ; at eleven held Divine 
service, Mr. Barrow, Mr. Long, Mr. Green, and 
Mr. Wheeler all taking part. We had a full room, 
and began with Morning Prayer. After the Second 
Lesson we had a baptism. There were fourteen can- 
didates for Confirmation, whom T addressed extem- 
pore for half an hour, as several had been present 
at our service yesterday. At the Holy Communion 
we had about twenty present. Our collection at the 
Offertory was upwards of 51. The whole service 
was a very interesting one — the people appearing 
very devout. After Divine service I held a meet- 
ing of the members of the Church, and brought 
under their notice the necessity of their contributing 
to the support of their Catechist, who, I am happy to 



SOUTHWELL. 



55 



say, appears to be working very earnestly and suc- 
cessfully. The congregations are good ; and at his 
different stations he has not less than fifty children 
under his instruction. A treasurer was appointed 
to collect funds, which are to be paid through the 
Church Society. After service we rode through an 
interesting country (fifteen miles,) to the Honourable 
Mr. Cocks's, at the mouth of the Kowie River. At 
his house we dined and slept. A large party of 
friends followed us in a wagon. 

Saturday, Oct. 21. — Mr. Cocks's son accompanied 
me this morning before six o'clock to view a fine 
reach of the Kowie River. The ride occupied about 
half an hour, and we returned to breakfast at'half- 
past six. At seven we started for Southwell. I 
rode with Mr. Cocks and his son, the wagon follow- 
ing. Our route lay through a rich valley, occupied 
by Mr. Cocks's tenantry, and standing thick with 
corn. The crops were in every stage of progress, 
from the early green blade to the ripe ear. We had 
a pleasant ride of fifteen miles to the school, w T here 
we arrived about ten o'clock. A congregation socn 
gathered, and I held a meeting of the trustees, who 
raised 201. on the spot towards liquidating the debt 
on their building, and I promised to assist them. 
We held Divine service at eleven o'clock. Mr. Bar- 
row, who rode over from Bathurst, read Morning 
Prayers ; Mr. Steabler the Lessons ; Mr. Long the 
Epistle and Offertory ; Mr. Green the Gospel. We 
had nineteen candidates for Confirmation, whom I ad- 
dressed extempore. Our communicants were about 



56 



graham's town. 



fourteen, and our Offertory collection upwards of 61 
After service some of the parishioners presented me 
with a memorial, expressive of their gratitude for 
the appointment of a Bishop — their obligations to 
Miss B. Coutts, who, moved by God's Holy Spirit, 
had founded the See — their obligations to me for 
appointing so excellent a Catechist, and their deep 
affection towards Mr. Barrow. I replied to them 
briefly, and expressed a hope that I might find 
things in a still more satisfactory condition, should 
it please God to spare me another visitation. At 
two o'clock we resumed our journey to Graham's 
Town, which lay over a wide plain till we reached 
the foot of the mountain, on the other side of which 
the town lies. Here oxen were waiting to take our 
wagon up a very steep ascent. We walked, and 
arrived at Colonel Somerset's, with whom we are to 
stay till Monday morning. At seven o'clock we had 
a few friends to dinner, with whom we spent an 
agreeable evening. 

Sunday, Oct, 22. — Service in Graham's Town 
at eleven o'clock. After the Second Lesson we had 
several baptisms, when I stood sponsor to Mr. Heavy- 
side's little boy ; I preached; at the Offertory we col- 
lected 18Z. for the new school, in addition to 300Z. 
raised by the parishioners for the same purpose, 
during my absence in Lower Albany '; after service 
some of the parishioners met me in vestry to inform 
me of the result of their efforts. The members of 
the Church Society are to meet on Thursday to elect 
their committee, and raise 100L a year for an addi- 



FORT BEAUFORT. 



57 



tional Clergyman. Arranged with Mr. Wilshere, 
who has arrived from Capetown during my absence, 
that he is to follow in a few days to Fort Beaufort. 
In the evening Mr. Green preached. 

Monday, Oct. 23. — Started early this morning, 
accompanied by Colonel Somerset, and several gen- 
tlemen from Graham's Town on horseback. Green 
went on in the wagon. We had a lovely day, and a 
very beautiful ride. During the day two very large 
snakes crossed our path. We stopped for half an 
hour at Fort Brown, (sixteen miles) ; here there are 
both troops and civilians, without a teacher of any 
kind. Colonel Somerset was very anxious that I 
should send a Catechist, but I know not how to sup- 
port him. We rode on to Koonap River, (nine miles,) 
where we had an early dinner ; and in the evening 
nine miles further, to a quiet little inn at Seur-fon- 
tein, where we slept. The country is hilly all the 
way, with the mountains in the distance. The views 
are in some parts very extensive ; there is no timber, 
but abundance of bush, and flowers of various kinds, 
especially the jasmine, which is very sweet, and 
several species of geranium, which entwine them- 
selves amongst the bushes, and have a very beautiful 
appearance. 

Tuesday, Oct. 24. — We started again on horse- 
back at six o'clock, and reached Fort Beaufort,(four- 
teen miles,) about nine o'clock. This morning's ride 
was through an interesting country, similar in its 
chief features to that which we passed through yes- 
terday ; it is a famous grazing country, both for 



58 



FORT BEAUFORT. 



cattle and sheep, the bushes affording excellent 
pasture during the dry season, but none of the land 
in this part of the country is fit for the plough. A 
few miles from Beaufort we were met by a large 
party of civilians and military, who came out on 
horseback to welcome us ; and on alighting at the 
inn I had a great number of visitors. Fort Beaufort 
is prettily situated on a plain amidst the hills, and 
is nearly surrounded by the Kat River. I found it 
to be a much more important place than I had sup- 
posed. At eleven o'clock we held Divine service in 
a very large barrack room ; there could not be less 
than between 200 and 300 persons present ; I con- 
firmed eighteen, who had been prepared by Mr. 
Pratt, Government schoolmaster, and administered 
the Holy Communion to about thirty. I addressed 
the candidates chiefly in an extempore way. At 
two o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners, who 
presented an address to me, congratulating me on my 
arrival, and bringing the spiritual state of the place 
under my notice. They have nearly finished the 
Church here, but have no Minister. This church 
has been built partly by a loan. I urged them to give 
up their shares as an offering, which all the share- 
holders present promised to do. A committee was 
appointed to communicate with all those who were 
absent — to make application to Government for land 
for a parsonage, churchyard, &c, and to take steps 
for the conveyance of the Church, &c. to the See. I 
also brought the Church Society before them, and 
invited them to contribute to Church purposes 



FORT HARE. 



59 



through it. I informed them also, that I would send 
them a Clergyman for one year, free of all expense— 
his stipend to be paid by the Society for the 
Propagation of the Gospel. At the end of the year, 
I informed them, they would have to contribute to 
his support. This meeting lasted till four o'clock, 
when we had evening service, and I preached again 
to a congregation which entirely filled the large 
room. After service I walked out of the town to in- 
spect the churchyard, and after this the Church ; I 
then went to visit a dying man, and retired at seven 
o'clock to a late dinner ; spent a quiet evening in 
writing letters. 

Wednesday, Oct 25. — A sleepless night ; remained 
awake till five o'clock ; received a large packet of 
letters bringing painful news ; started at eleven 
o'clock, in a smart shower, for Fort Hare. Major 
Johnstone, Mr. Bovey, and Mr. Pratt accompanied 
us. We stopped for an hour at the military village 
of Ely. The people have made great progress in 
the erection of their houses, and talked of building 
a Church. The crops in their gardens and land 
were abundant. Each man has twelve acres of 
arable land. They are also allowed, for the present, 
rations, and the use of Government wagons. It is 
a pity that so few of the men are married. Those 
who were, were very urgent on me to provide a 
schoolmaster for their children. We arrived at three 
o'clock at Fort Hare, meeting Colonel Armstrong 
on the road, he having come out to meet us. At 
four o'clock I held a Confirmation, for which holy 



60 



AUCKLAND. 



rite there were but three candidates ; nor did many 
of the troops attend. After service I went to lie 
down for an hour before dinner, being quite knocked 
up for want of rest. We dined with the 45th, who 
are quartered here, and went in the evening to Mr. 
Beaver, the Chaplain. Fort Hare is not a very in- 
teresting-looking place, the houses being all built 
of what is called " wattle and dab." 

Thursday, Oct. 26. — We started at six o'clock this 
morning, on horseback, for another military village, 
(Woburn,) Colonel Armstrong and Mr. Beaver ac- 
companying us. After conversing with the men, 
arid inspecting their houses, we rode on to Auckland, 
another military village, situated at the source of 
the Chumie, in a very beautiful spot, just under the 
Amatola Mountains. On the opposite side of this 
stream is British KafTraria, and the whole border- 
line is thickly studded with kraals and cattle, partly, 
I belie ve ; because of the proximity to the Colony, 
and partly because the grass and soil are excellent. 
I was glad to see some Kaffir men digging in the 
gardens — an unusual sight ; for all labour is usually 
assigned to the wives. Auckland is a larger village 
than the others ; but the land does not appear to be 
so good, and the crops are consequently not so pro- 
mising. Mr. Beaver had given no notice of a service ; 
but several of the people drew together with their 
Bibles and Prayer Books, so that I felt it would 
be wrong not to hold a service. I therefore read 
Morning Prayer in one of the cottages, and preached 
to them extempore. The people were very earnest 



BALFOUR. 



61 



in asking for a catechist and schoolmaster. I pro- 
mised to do what I could to procure one. After 
leaving this we made our way back to the Missionary- 
station of Chumie, belonging to the Glasgow 
Society — the Secession and Relief Scotch Dissenters, 
I was much pleased with what I saw here. The 
school seemed to me especially good, and there were 
two very nice mistresses — one, a Kaffir woman, who 
speaks English perfectly, having been educated in 
Scotland. After staying an hour with the Missionary, 
Mr. Cummins, we proceeded on our journey to Bal- 
four, and rode over the mountains, through a very 
beautiful country. Mr. Thompson met us a few 
miles from his house. He has charge of the Kat 
Eiver settlement, consisting entirely of Hottentots, 
who have been located by Government here ; and 
some of them had acquired a good deal of property, 
previously to the breaking out of the last war. Mr. 
Thompson appears to be an intelligent man, as does 
also Mr. Eeed, of the London Missionary Society, 
who has a kind of joint charge of the Hottentots 
with Mr. Thompson, who is a Minister of the Dutch 
Church. Mr. Thompson has a large school, con- 
sisting of the daughters of Missionaries in Kaffir 
Land. We have ridden to-day, altogether, about 
Mtj miles, and have had a fatiguing, though an in- 
teresting expedition. 

Friday, Oct. 27. — Started at seven o'clock this 
morning, in a cold fog, which was so dense that we 
lost our way. It cleared up, however, about eight, 
and we found ourselves in a rich and beautiful valley 



62 



FORT RETIEF. 



just under the Winterberg Mountain. We soon had 
to commence the ascent of a part of this range, and 
were compelled to walk our horses, the road being 
very steep. The sun came out here upon us, and it 
was intensely hot. We arrived at about ten at Fort 
Retief, where Mr. Wilson came out to meet us. As 
soon as we were dressed we again mounted our 
horses, and rode about three miles to the school, 
where a large congregation was awaiting us. They 
all came out to meet me on the road, and gave 
me a hearty welcome. The school-house was soon 
filled with an attentive congregation. I confirmed 
fifteen, whom I addressed extempore, After ser- 
vice we went to look at the building which Mr. 
Boon had begun, but was unable to finish, consisting 
of a church, school, and dwelling-house. I held a 
public meeting at two o'clock, at which about thirty 
of the parishioners were present. We formed a 
committee for finishing the Church, leaving the rest 
of the building at present ; also to raise funds for 
the support of a settled ministry; their subscriptions 
to be paid through the Church Society, the nature 
of which I explained to them. There is a day, 
and also a Sunday School here, and I am glad to find 
that Mr. Wilson is zealously and successfully dis- 
charging the duties of a parish Minister in this 
long-neglected field. 

Saturday, Oct. 28. — Spent the early part of 
the morning in writing, but we mounted our horses 
again at ten o'clock, Mr. Wilson accompanying us. 
The day was fine, but very warm. Fort Eetief is 



MANCAZANA POST. 



63 



situated in a somewhat dreary spot ; but we soon 
got into a country which gradually improved, till we 
reached the Mancazana Post, which is beautifully 
situated in a fruitful valley, surrounded by fine 
mountains. I observed to-day a great variety of 
flowers, some of them very beautiful, just coming 
into bloom. I also was pained to observe many 
symptoms of Kaffir ravages, in farm-houses burnt 
down and not yet rebuilt. In one place, the family 
was living partly in a hut of straw, and partly in a 
wagon. The class of farmers in this district seem 
inferior in point of education, &c. to our English 
gentlemen in the interior and the western province. 
They are perhaps naturally very much embittered 
against the Kaffirs, and turn a deaf ear to Missions. 
There are more of the coloured population employed 
by them than, I think, in other parts ; and so far as 
food, &c. is concerned, they are, I believe, kind to 
them ; but I fear the instances are very, very rare 
where any attempt is made to raise their characters 
by instruction. It is painful to see the degraded 
condition of these poor creatures — around each farm 
there may be a dozen of their bee-hive huts, made 
of a kind of reed. In each hut there dwells a man, 
his wives, and a considerable family of little naked 
savages, scarce raised in condition above the pigs 
and cows by which they are surrounded, but with 
intelligent countenances, and a fine manly bearing. 
In this day's ride of thirty miles, I saw but one man 
working. It is the usual custom for the male to sit 
smoking at home, while his wives are cultivating 



64 



MA.NCAZANA POST. 



the ground. We " off-saddled " for an hour at 
Mr. Bears, who in the late war of 1835 was entirely 
stripped of all that he possessed. He had built a 
wall round his house, and made a kind of fortifica- 
tion. He was attacked once by the Kaffirs, and 
killed fourteen of them. He had been for sixteen 
years in the Colony before he received a visit from a 
Clergyman of the Church. Additional labourers are 
sadly wanted here, as everywhere. May God, in 
His infinite mercy, dispose the hearts of His people 
at home to provide the means, and the men, for the 
establishment of His Church and kingdom in this 
desolate portion of the earth, for the bringing 
within His fold these poor lost tribes, who are, 
though in the midst of a professedly Christian 
people, sitting in the darkness and shadow of death ! 
1 do not think I have in any part of my destitute 
Diocese been so forcibly struck with the need we 
have to make fresh and more vigorous exertions 
for the establishment of additional clergy, who will 
devote themselves to the work for Christ's sake. 
Much there is, and will be, to try God's servants 
and ministers, on entering on the w r ork here ; but 
ample, I am sure, will be the reward, if not in this 
world, yet abundantly in that which is to come. We 
arrived at the Mancazana Post about four o'clock, 
and found Mr. Boon, the catechist of the Colonial 
Church Society, awaiting our arrival, and that our 
wagon had also arrived. Mr. Boon walked with us 
down to his little church, which he had built, and 
which he has fitted up in the interior in a very cor- 



MANCAZANA POST. 



65 



rect and devotional spirit. The interior indeed is 
more like a church or house of prayer than any 
building I have yet seen in the Colony. The ex- 
terior is poor enough. I have had a long conversa- 
tion with him this evening about the state of religion 
in this neighbourhood, and his account is painful 
indeed. 

Sunday, Oct. 29. — At nine o'clock this morn- 
ing Mr. Boon's school assembled. I examined them, 
and addressed them : at eleven o'clock we held 
Divine Service in his neat little Church, to the west- 
ern entrance of which he had attached a kind of tent, 
by way of ante-chapel. Both Church and tent were 
completely filled with a devout congregation. Mr. 
Green officiated — Mr. Boon reading the Lessons and 
Epistle. I preached. We had eleven communicants, 
one or two of whom were much affected ; the offer- 
tory amounting to between 51. and 61. After ser- 
vice, several spoke to me of the state of spiritual 
destitution in which they had lived, never having 
seen a minister of their Church. I find that the 
families of many Churchmen have joined some of 
the various sects, who, while we have neglected 
them, have met and supplied wants which they felt, 
but saw no prospect of having supplied within their 
own communion. We had our Confirmation Service 
at three o'clock, when I confirmed six candidates. 
There was again a full congregation, whom I ad- 
dressed, together with the candidates, on the nature 
of our Christian obligations, extempore. In the 
evening, we had Divine Service again at seven 

F 



68 



MANCAZANA POST. 



o'clock. I preached on the text, " When shall I 
come and appear before God ? " (Psalm xlii. 2.) 

Monday, Oct 30. — Spent the early part of the 
morning in endeavouring to devise some scheme 
by which poor Mr. Boon may be relieved from the 
responsibilities which his zeal for Church and School 
building have involved him in. I trust I may be 
able to succeed ; but larger funds are required for 
the completion of the undertaking, than can, I fear, 
be raised ; and the tenure of the property upon 
which he has built is so insecure, that I have great 
doubts how far I can give assistance, under existing 
circumstances, and whether we can ever secure it 
for the Church. At ten o'clock I held a meeting of 
the inhabitants. I pressed upon them the raising of 
funds to support an additional Clergyman, whom 
they speak of as greatly wanted ; and also to raise 
the small amount still required to free their Church 
from debt. A committee was formed for carrying 
out these objects, the sums collected to be paid 
through the Church Society, the nature of which I 
explained to them. Six stations were named in the 
district, where it is desirable to hold services. At 
one o'clock we started again in our wagon, and 
drove through an interesting country, but over 
wretched roads, to Mr. J. Nourse's, whose house 
was burnt down last year by the Kaffirs, and is not 
yet rebuilt. After outspanning here for half-an- 
hour, we drove on to Sir A. Stockenstrom's, whose 
house we reached at half-past five, and found dinner 
waiting for us. I had an interesting conversation 



SIR A. STOCKENSTROM'S. 



67 



with him in the evening, respecting the coloured 
population, of whom there are such numbers in 
these parts. Their existing condition is most melan- 
choly. A little village of Kaffirs or Fingoes sur- 
rounds almost every farm-house. For these people 
nothing is done by the Christian population, whose 
servants they are, and one scarce sees what is to be 
done. They feel they owe no debt to the white 
man, who has deprived them of their country ; and 
they consequently think him fair prey. Nothing is 
more common, therefore, than for the servant to 
desert his master, carrying off with him some of his 
best oxen or cows ; in fact, Sir A. has just lost five, 
which he is seeking after in vain. What is to be 
done with or for these poor people ? I fear, as 
things at present are, it is only by raising the 
Christian character of the master, and leading him 
to take an interest in the spiritual welfare of the serf 
population, that we can hope to do much good. But 
at present the white people themselves are living, in 
many instances, cut off from the means of grace, and 
thus are themselves deteriorating. I have met with 
one young man to-day, the son of a Clergyman, who 
has a coloured population of 100 souls upon his 
farm ; and to these he gives religious instruction 
every Lord's-day ; and he tells me he reaps the 
benefit of it, in a worldly way, in the improved cha- 
racter and conduct of his people. He has no Clergy- 
man or Church within 100 miles of him. 

Tuesday, Oct. 31. — Started at nine o'clock this 
morning. Drove through a pleasing country, four 



68 



SOMERSET. 



hours, to the Great Fish River, where we out- 
spanned, and in which I enjoyed a swim. After- 
wards drove on, three hours, to Somerset, which 
is a pretty village, and beautifully situated, with the 
mountains in the back. We took up our quarters at 
Mr. Hudson's, the Civil Commissioner, and found 
that he, with a party of gentlemen, had gone out to 
meet us by a different road from that by which we 
entered. Mr. and Mrs. Long had waited here for 
our arrival. He has been preparing the candidates 
for Confirmation. 

Wednesday, Nov. 1. — The early part of the day 
spent in writing, chiefly relative to the state of things 
at George. At eleven o'clock we held a Confirmation 
in the Dutch Church : there were fifteen candidates. 
We had also a Baptism after the second Lesson. At 
two o'clock I held a meeting of the parishioners, and 
an excellent spirit prevailed. The amount of sub- 
scription towards the stipend of a Clergyman is 60/. 
a-year, to be paid through the Church Society, the 
nature of which I explained to them. A committee 
of the Society was formed. Two memorials to 
Government were drawn up, and signed, one asking 
for assistance towards the stipend of a Clergyman, 
the other for a site for a Church. We raised 70/. 
in the room towards the erection of a Church. One 
gentleman consulted me about the question of tithes, 
which he said he felt bound in conscience to pay, not 
as an offering, but a debt to God. Our meeting was 
over at four o'clock, after which I returned a few 
calls. Dinner at five. Church Service again at six 



SQUAGGAS HOEK. FISH RIVER. 



69 



o'clock, when I preached, and administered the Holy 
Communion to fourteen persons, one of whom had 
been, I think, thirty-nine years in the Colony with- 
out seeing a Clergyman. 

Thursday, Nov. 2. — Rose at four o'clock, and 
started at a little past five on our road to Cradock. 
The route lay for several miles through a rough and 
rocky valley of considerable beauty, called Squaggas 
Hoek. We afterwards emerged into a more open 
country, and arrived at a Dutch farm, just as they 
were sitting down to dinner : they gave us a hearty 
welcome. We then passed through a country 
still hilly, though somewhat barren, till we arrived 
at some farms called Spit Kop, where we were to 
sleep ; but finding there was only one dark hole 
where the family slept, but which they kindly offered 
to give up to us, we preferred passing the night in 
the wagon ; where we rested better than we ex- 
pected, with our men snoring on the ground on one 
side of us, and the horses tethered to the wagon on 
the other. Unfortunately for them, poor things, the 
night was a cold one. 

Friday, Nov. 3. — Started this morning a little after 
five o'clock : the country through which we passed 
was hilly, and very barren. We had, however, fine 
mountain views. At half-past ten we arrived on the 
banks of the Fish River, where we first bathed, and 
then completed our toilet and shaving, which we had 
no opportunity of doing before. We offered up our 
morning orisons under the shade of the Mimosa. 
Our road from hence lay along a stony desolate 



70 



CKADOCK. 



valley, with mountains on either side, until we 
reached Cradock about three o'clock. This is an 
increasing place. I find here a Dutch Church, Wes- 
leyan and Independent Chapels ; but no English 
Church, or Clergyman. Many of our people have 
already joined other communions — others attend 
their services, until a better day shall dawn. I have 
had a list of about sixty persons presented to me, 
chiefly heads of families, who still call themselves 
English Church-people. I think something may be 
done here. In the afternoon I went to call upon 
several of our people, and upon the Dutch Minister, 
who has kindly placed his Church at our disposal. 
We took up our quarters at Mr. Gilfillan, the Civil 
Commissioner's, who has kindly invited us to his house. 

Saturday, Nov. 4. — The early part of the day I 
employed myself in writing letters, and other official 
business. Mr. Green employed himself in preparing 
candidates for Confirmation. At two o'clock I held 
a meeting of the Church -people. There were but 
few there, owing to some mistake ; but a committee 
of the Church Society was formed — subscriptions 
entered into in support of a Clergyman, and towards 
the erection of a Church, and memorials drawn up 
to Government, for a grant for the only remaining 
erf for a Church and Parsonage, and for assistance 
towards the support of a Clergyman. Again, I had 
to listen to the painful tale I have so often heard, of 
many having joined themselves to other communions, 
after waiting for years in the hope of seeing a Minis- 
ter of their own established amongst them. In the 



CRADOCK. 



71 



evening Mr. Gilfillan had a large party of gentlemen 
to meet us at dinner. 

Sunday, Nov. 5. — At eight o'clock this morning 
began the work of preparing some additional candi- 
dates for Confirmation, of whose characters I had 
heard a good report, and with whose earnestness 
and seriousness of deportment I was much pleased. 
At half-past eleven we held Morning Service in the 
Dutch Church, after theirs was concluded. We had a 
full Church, and I confirmed thirteen. Several chil- 
dren were baptized after the second Lesson; and one 
lady churched. In the evening we held Divine Ser- 
vice again, when I preached, and administered the 
Holy Communion to nineteen. We deferred the 
Communion till the evening, in ordgr that the newly- 
confirmed might have an opportunity of communi- 
cating. After service I had an anonymous offering 
of 151. sent in "from one who had lost his all in the 
late Kaffir war, but was again prospering through 
the mercy of God." I cannot but hope that the 
services of this day may be blessed to the good of 
the souls of our people. Several expressed them- 
selves in a very right and proper spirit. May God 
in His infinite mercy speedily raise up for them a 
faithful pastor! 

Monday, Nov. 6. — Started between five and six 
o'clock. Another most lovely day. I cannot be too 
thankful to God, amongst other things, for the beau- 
tiful weather I have had ever since I left Capetown. 
Had it been otherwise, how much must my work 



72 



KARROO COUNTRY. 



have been impeded : delay even for a few hours 
would in almost every case have deranged my whole 
plans. Our route lay through a Karroo country 
with scarcely any houses, and bearing a very deso- 
late appearance. The country was quite flat, but in 
the distance we have had mountains all the way. 
The only inhabitants seem to be spring-boks and the 
buffalo : we saw many of the former. We out- 
spanned by the Great Fish River, and again after- 
wards by the Braak River, in which we enjoyed a 
bath. We slept at Zoet Fontein, Andreis Bester's, a 
very intelligent and amiable Dutch farmer. We 
spent our evening in reading together the Dutch 
and English Prayer-book, of which I gave him a 
copy. 

Tuesday, Nov. 7. — A restless night. I did not fall 
asleep until near three o'clock, and was called at a 
little past four. This was owing, I believe, to the 
voraciousness of the animals that infested the bed. 
I walked on before the wagon in the morning, 
having wearied myself out with reading Southey's 
life of Wesley in the night. About this house we 
found three tame ostriches, also the secretary bird. 
Our journey, as yesterday, lay over a great desert 
plain, with nothing upon it but a kind of bush, 
abounding, however, with the spring-bok, of which 
we must have seen thousands : they kept crossing 
our path incessantly, skipping and bounding very 
beautifully. Around us on all sides were mountains. 
The natural road is for the most part as good as any 



COLESBERG. 



73 



road in England. Where we outspanned we found 
the ground for a considerable extent actually covered 
with locusts ; giving us some idea of what the plague 
of locusts must have been. Two men were inces- 
santly employed with leather flags tied to sticks, 
flapping away the locusts from a field of corn which 
was growing near the only water for miles ; but I 
fear all their exertions will not prevent them from 
consuming it We slept at Peter Zisanopol's farm, 
Macaster Fontein, where the people insisted on 
turning out of their only bed-room to accommodate 
us. I had rather have slept in the wagon, but they 
had made all the arrangements while I had gone to 
bathe in a vlea near the house. The farmer asked 
us to hold a Service in Dutch, saying they were so 
seldom able to hear God's ministers. Though I 
was very doubtful whether they could understand 
my Dutch, I thought it wrong not to comply. We 
began with a Psalm. I then read to them a portion 
of the Word of God, and offered up some of the 
prayers of our Church. They professed to under- 
stand all that I said, but I fear my pronunciation 
must have appeared ridiculous to them. 

Wednesday, Nov. 8. — Off again between five and 
six: features of the country much the same as yes- 
terday. We outspanned for breakfast at Cobus 
Pinars : afterwards again near a vlea, where we 
bathed. We arrived at Colesberg a little after five 
o'clock. Colesberg is situated in a kind of valley, 
between two rows of barren broken rocks. There 



74 



COLESBERG. 



is not much space for a large town. The Dutch 
Church is the great proprietor, owning 46,000 acres 
of land, given to them by Sir L. Cole, when Governor. 
I called in the evening upon the Dutch Minister, to 
thank him for the offer of his Church, which he has 
kindly placed at my disposal. We took up our quar- 
ters with Dr. and Mrs. Orpen, whom we found well 
and cheerful. 

Thursday, Nov. 9. — Spent the morning in writing 
and receiving visitors. Eeceived a letter from the 
Dutch Minister, wherein he offers, in the name of 
his Church, the only remaining unsold erf, as a site 
for an English Church. Commenced Dr. Orpen's 
examination for Holy Orders. 

Friday 9 Nov. 10. — Started on horseback a little 
after five, to have a look at the Orange River. We 
arrived there before eight o'clock, and after knee- 
bathing our horses, swam across it : we returned 
home about twelve o'clock. The distance is about 
thirty miles. In the afternoon proceeded with 
Dr. Orpen's examination, and wrote some letters. 
Dined in the evening with Mr. Eawstorne, the Civil 
Commissioner. 

Saturday ', Nov. 11. — Held a Confirmation this 
morning in the Dutch Church ; twelve were con- 
firmed, several of whom were much affected. At 
two o'clock held a public meeting. Unfortunately 
at this time several of our chief people are absent on 
business. We however commenced subscriptions 
for a Church and a Clergyman. Memorialized 



COLESBERG. 



75 



Government for assistance. Founded the Church 
Society, and passed resolutions thanking the Dutch 
for their gift of a site for a Church. Afterwards 
finished Dr. Orpen's examination. I am very much 
pleased with him, and Mrs. Orpen. They are excel- 
lent, pious people ; and he has evidently already done 
much good here, gaining the respect and regard of 
all in the place, and drawing around him a congre- 
gation much larger than could have been expected in 
so short a time. He has the condition of the heathen 
much at heart, and I doubt not, with God's blessing, 
will, so soon as he can, disclose to them, in their own 
tongue, the wonderful works of God, and seek the 
salvation of their souls. 

Sunday, Nov. 12. — Ordained Dr. Orpen Deacon 
this morning in the Dutch Church ; and had much 
satisfaction and joy in admitting him to the Ministry. 
We had a large congregation on the occasion. At 
the Holy Communion eighteen presented themselves, 
several of whom wept freely. I preached on the 
duties and privileges of the Christian Ministry. In 
the evening we had Divine Service again, the Dutch 
Minister having kindly omitted his evening service 
for the occasion. I preached again with special 
reference to the work in which we are engaged — 
the building of the House of our God. I fear the 
religious condition of the European population is at 
a very low ebb in this neighbourhood. The treatment 
of the coloured heathen is, from all I can learn, any- 
thing but what it should be ; and but little calculated 



76 



ELANDS FONTEIN. 



to win them to the faith of Christ. The Dutch 
population, too, so far as education is concerned, 
appears to be in a very sad condition. The farmers 
are, I understand, wealthy here, but keep nearly all 
they possess stored up in their own houses. I have 
heard that in this way they keep in some instances 
even thousands treasured up. 

Monday, Nov. 13. — Spent the morning in writing. 
Afterwards called upon several of the inhabitants. 

****** 
The Government is now consulting the field cornet- 
cies as to the best method to be adopted for checking 
thefts of cattle, &c. by the coloured population. The 
farmers have in several instances suggested that they 
should be allowed to administer a " vaderligh tucht," 
fatherly correction ; the tender nature of which may 
be seen in the case of a poor coloured man now in 
jail or tronk at Colesberg ; the soles of whose feet 
were so beaten by a farmer, that he is now obliged 
to crawl about on his hands and knees. We slept 
at Elands Fontein — -I in the tent which was furnished 
for me by the Governor. I found my mother Earth 
none of the softest, and had but little sleep. My 
morning toilet was performed at one o'clock by the 
side of a muddy vlea, much to the annoyance of the 
frogs : a vineyard was my oratory. 

Tuesday, Nov. 14. — Slept at Mr. Bark's, an 
Englishman ; the country is much the same as that 
already passed through — large dreary plains inter- 
rupted by rocky koppies, abounding with the spring- 



GEAAFF REINET. 



77 



bok and the gnu. We managed to get a refreshing 
bathe ; and our weather is still beautiful, though 
both warm and dusty. 

Wednesday, Nov. 15. — A long day's journey 
through a country similar to that we have traversed 
since we left Cradock : the whole of our day we 
encountered successive herds of spring-bok, gnu, 
and occasionally flocks of the beautiful crane of the 
country. 

Thursday, Nov. 16. — The character of the country 
is somewhat altered to-day. We are again amidst 
the mountains, but everything wears the same 
barren, desolate aspect as before. The spring-boks 
and the gnus have disappeared, and we have scarce 
seen any symptom of life, except that of a few sheep. 
We have found some difficulty even in procuring 
sufficient water for our horses, the streams being, 
many of them, quite dry through the long-continued 
drought. We have felt it, however, quite refreshing 
to have exchanged the wearisome plains for the 
mountains. We arrived at GraafF Eeinet about six. 
The approach to the town by the banks of the river 
with mountain crags hanging over it is very beau- 
tiful, and the town itself is charmingly situated 
amongst the hills. It contains a population of 
upwards of four thousand, and is laid out in squares 
with streets crossing each other at right angles. 
Almost every house has a garden, abounding with 
the fig-tree, peach, vine, mulberry, pear, pome- 
granates^ apricot, &c. The oleander here grows to 
a large tree, and I observed the Kaffir-broom, and 



78 



GRAAFF REINET. 



some magnificent weeping willows. Little streams 
of water run through almost every street. The 
Dutch Church, with a very tolerable tower and spire, 
is well situated in the centre of the town. Having 
arrived a day sooner than was expected, I prevented 
the parishioners from riding out to meet me, as they 
informed me they had intended to do. I found 
a packet of about thirty letters awaiting me, several 
of them from England, containing accounts of the 
falling off of my subscriptions, just as I have been 
pledging myself to near 400/. a-year beyond what 
I had raised in England. But God will provide. He 
will not suffer His work to languish for want of a 
few hundred pounds. 

Friday, Nov. 17. — Reading letters and writing. 
Walked about the town to look at the site of the 
Church and Churchyard. In the afternoon drove 
round the town. Visitors kept dropping in the 
whole day from morning to night. 

Saturday, Nov. 18. — Confirmed forty-eight can- 
didates this morning, many of whom were deeply 
impressed. Afterwards held a meeting of the 
parishioners, when a plan for a Church was decided 
upon, a fresh subscription entered into in support of 
their Minister, memorials drawn up to the Governor 
applying for land for Churchyard and Glebe, Church 
Society explained and founded, Pastoral Letter 
addressed by me to the Clergy, enlarged upon. The 
meeting lasted nearly four hours. I trust the Church 
here will soon be begun, as the money collected or 
promised exceeds 900/. 



GRAAFF REINET. 



79 



Sunday, Nov. 19. — Divine Service with Holy 
Communion in the Dutch Church : many of the 
Dutch were present. I preached on the necessity of 
coming unto Christ in order to salvation, and the 
way in which men must come. So long have our 
people in this congregation been deprived of the 
Holy Communion, that very many seem not to know 
how the Sacrament is administered in the English 
Church. I have both confirmed here, and adminis- 
tered the Holy Communion to some who were 
brought up in the Dutch Church. I believe that 
there are many of the more educated of that commu- 
nion, who, where they have an opportunity of judg- 
ing of our Church, prefer it much to their own. I 
preached again in the evening on the spirit in which 
we should enter upon the erection of the House of 
God, Our collection to-day for Holy Vessels 
amounted to upwards of 18/. 

Monday \ Nov. 20. — Writing letters in the morn- 
ing. At eleven, went out to return calls ; in which 
occupation I was engaged during the remainder of 
the day. 

Tuesday, Nov. 21. — I leave GraaiF Reinet with 
much satisfaction, feeling assured that Mr. Long 
will devote himself, as he has hitherto zealously 
done, to the work of the ministry ; and that God's 
cause will prosper there. I have heard to-day that 
the impression made by the Confirmation has been 
most happy and salutary; and that some, at least, are 
resolved to live as members of Christ, and children 
of God. Some Jews sent a contribution to our 



80 



SNEEUWBERGr. 



Church, having heard the afternoon sermon yester- 
day, in which I endeavoured to stir up our people to 
take part in the erection of the house of God, as a 
high privilege, hy showing the spirit in which God's 
ancient people engaged in the erection of the taber- 
nacle, and the rearing and restoring the temple. 
At six o'clock this morning, we started on horse- 
back, accompanied by Mr. Hewath, the church- 
warden, who kindly lent us horses, and Mr. 
Southey: they rode with us till ten o'clock. Shortly 
after we passed by a very singular and beautiful 
waterfall, which fell from the edge of our road into 
a very deep valley beneath. Afterwards our route 
lay along a valley, which had no very interesting 
features. The country is much burnt up, and there 
are no trees. Our day's journey was about fifty 
miles. We slept at Rhenoster-fontein. 

Wednesday, Nov. 22. — The Sneeuwberg, through 
which we are passing, is a somewhat richer country 
than we have of late seen ; the farms exhibit signs 
of wealth, and here and there, where there is a 
" fontein," there are patches of arable land covered 
with luxuriant crops. If only there were more 
rain, or rivers which continually flowed, or if 
there were greater efforts made to preserve what 
water does fall, the greater part of the valleys which 
we passed through might undoubtedly be brought 
under the plough. The general features of the 
country, however, present but a barren appearance. 
We passed the night on the edge of the Buffalo 
River, whose broad basin, however, was nearly dry. 



BEAUFORT. 



81 



My tent, which was pitched in the sand, was so 
loosened from its holdings by the wind, that it kept 
flapping all night, and the sand drifted into my bed, 
so that I scarce got any rest. We enjoyed, how- 
ever, the freedom of our mode of life, and lay 
gazing on our magnificent canopy of stars. 

Thursday , Nov. 23. — Being ready before the 
wagon, I had an enjoyable walk of two hours in 
advance. During the day we saw a great number 
of ostriches. We were quite rejoiced again to see 
the Mimosa, of which a fortnight since we were 
quite weary. Anything green is pleasing, after the 
dreary waste of dry and withered bushes, by which 
we have been of late surrounded. We halted at 
night at a farm about four hours distant from 
Beaufort, and slept in tent and wagon. 

Friday, Nov. 24.— Arrived in Beaufort about ten 
o'clock, our horses appearing somewhat fagged. I 
find the Civil Commissioner has never received 
my letter, and that I was, consequently, not ex- 
pected. He however soon engaged lodgings for us, 
and we got some breakfast before twelve o'clock. It 
is very unfortunate that no notice could be given of 
my visit, for most of the English population reside 
in the country, there being, I am told, not less than 
forty farmers in the neighbourhood. I have, how- 
ever, notified my desire to meet the inhabitants to- 
morrow, and to hold service in the Dutch Church. 
I found another packet of English letters here, and 

one from , announcing the arrival of the 

Archdeacon, and seven Clergy and Catechists. 

G 



82 



BEAUFORT. 



Spent the day in writing letters, and calling upon 
and conversing with the English inhabitants. 

Saturday, Nov. 25.— Morning spent in receiving 
visits, inspecting and examining the heathen school, 
and calling upon some of the English people. I 
found one lady, who said she had been thirty-eight 
years in the Colony, without seeing any Minister of 
her own Church. Several more, having quite 
despaired of ever having a Clergyman near them, 
have joined the Dutch Church. There is, however, 
a little congregation here of members of the En- 
glish Church, who meet together every Lord's-day, 
to read the Church Service. Mr. Fraser, the Dutch 
Minister, received us very kindly, and assured me 
he should give up the English service which he now 
holds, as soon as an English Clergyman is appointed. 
Examined the Government school. There appears 
to be an excellent teacher here. I held a meeting of 
the English inhabitants at three o'clock, in the 
Court-house, in order that we might take steps for 
the erection of a Church, and the raising of a 
stipend for a Minister. It was very well attended, 
though the notice was so short, — but none of the 
country people could be present. Nearly 20GZ. was 
raised in the room for a Church ; and this, it is 
expected, will be greatly increased: nearly 50/. 
a~year for five years pledged for a Clergyman, and 
this also will be much increased. Memorials were 
drawn up and signed, requesting the Governor to 
give a site for a Church, &c, and to meet their sub- 
scription by grants both towards Church and Pastor. 



BEAUFORT. 



83 



I was not able to promise them much assistance, 
being pledged already to an extent beyond the funds 
placed at my disposal. After the meeting, in the 
evening, several persons came to see me, on cases of 
conscience. They spoke in affecting terms of their 
spiritual destitution, and of the awful condition 
into which many English settlers have sunk, from 
want of the means of grace ; and expressed their 
joy at the prospect of a change. One gentleman 
declared, though his family had, from lack of means 
in their own Church, joined another communion, yet 
that in their hearts they were with their ancient 
mother ; and that they should return to her fold 
as soon as they had the opportunity : at my next 
Visitation, he and his three sons would present 
themselves for Confirmation, and would have done so 
now, had there been sufficient time to prepare for it. 

Sunday, Nov* 26. — We held service this morning 
in the Dutch Church. There was a large congrega- 
tion of Dutch and English. There were but few 
communicants. Several wished to have approached 
the Lord's Table, but were deterred from want of 
preparation, the notice having been so short; and 
possibly, also, from having, in this their spiritual 
wilderness, thought but little of it. The Evening 
Service was at five o'clock, Mr. Fraser omitting his 
usual English service. There was a good congrega- 
tion. I preached on both occasions. In the after- 
noon, at Mr. Fraser's request, I addressed both the 
coloured and Dutch Sunday-school, who were 
brought into the church for that purpose. His clerk 



84 



KARROO COUNTRY. 



interpreted for me. The coloured school consisted 
chiefly of adult heathens. Poor things, they seemed 
very attentive. In the evening, many of the inha- 
bitants came to bid us good-bye, and to wish us a 
prosperous journey; and some of them sent us 
cakes, honey, and milk, for provision by the way. 

Monday, Nov. 27. — Rose at three o'clock, but 
was delayed some time, waiting for the horses I had 
engaged. I thought it prudent to send on my own 
horses a day in advance, lest they should be quite 
knocked up on our long journey to George, over a 
road but little known, but known to be a bad one. 
Our route to-day has been along a dreary, barren, 
desolate Karroo. We have performed, however, 
nearly seventy miles, over a rough road. Our 
horses stuck for some time in the dry bed of a 
river, and I thought we should have to remain there 
till the next thunder-storm washed us all away. 
After whipping the poor jaded horses for some time, 
our men suggested that Green and myself should 
put our shoulders to the wheel, which we accordingly 
did, and at length got out. We outspanned for the 
night near a little muddy pool in the bed of the 
river ; and here again we were obliged, as it was 
growing dark, to become hewers of wood for our 
fire, and drawers of water; while our men were 
pitching the tent, lighting the fire, cooking our 
supper, and feeding the horses. 

Tuesday, Nov. 28.— We rose again between three 
and four. I walked on, and the wagon did not over- 
take me till I reached Swanapools, where our horses 



ZUNYBERGr MOUNTAINS. 



85 



were waiting for us. I had a pleasant walk for two 
hours. We started immediately with our own 
horses, and travelled as usual, till we arrived at the 
top of the Zunyberg Mountains, over which we had 
to pass, where one of our wheels gave way with a 
great crash. By my calculation of distances, I con- 
sidered that we could not be more than half-an-hour 
from a farm ; and therefore I started on foot, with 
Ludwig, to get assistance, leaving Green in charge 
of the wagon. We walked on till near nine o'clock 
before we reached a house, and, found ourselves 
twelve miles beyond the place where I was told 
there was a house, but where we found there was 
none. I was very tired before we reached the place, 
and was thankful, on arriving at a pool of water, to 
kneel down like the cattle and drink ; but would 
have gladly given up my place to our poor parched 
horses, who had no water within several miles of 
them. We found it was too late to send a wagon that 
night, the oxen not being in the kraal ; I therefore 
asked if I could sleep at the farm. The good people 
readily assented, but alarmed me by covering the 
floor of my room with beds for the whole family, 
which, however, from a hint from Ludwig, they 
moved into another room, to my great consolation. 
I did not sleep well, having still a superabundance of 
unpleasant bedfellows. 

Wednesday, Nov. 29. — Early in the morning I 
despatched Ludwig with an ox-wagon, and a cask of 
water for the horses, while I walked on to see a 
wheelmaker, who happened to live near, about 



86 



KARROO COUNTRY. 



making us a new wheel. I found him engaged 
in repairing another wagon that had broken 
down, but he promised despatch. I feel somewhat 
crippled with my walk of twenty-five miles yester- 
day, under a hot sun, Having no books, nor any 
writing materials, my day was but a dull one. I 
spent the greater part of it under the shade of some 
mimosa bushes, reviewing my work, meditating upon 
various subjects, and looking out anxiously for the 
wagon. Our wheelwright, in spite of his promises, 
went to bed before I did. The wagon did not return 
till nearly nine o'clock. They were once upset, 
which did not improve the condition either of the 
vehicle or its contents. 

Thursday, Nov. 30. — We find the benefit of carry- 
ing provision with us, as we are nearly reduced to 
living on our own stores. Christian produced an 
ostrich's egg, which he had got from a coloured 
woman during his journey yesterday, and it satisfied 
the hunger of our whole party. I do not much 
admire the flavour ; it is too rich. Our men all set 
to work upon the wheel, and I fear it will not be 
finished to-night. We spent our day chiefly in 
reading, and writing letters. Walking up a small 
valley, we came to a waterfall, and a very deep pool 
under rocks, perhaps 600 feet high. Here we en- 
joyed a very cold bath. I swam under the fall, 
which was not a very great one. 

Friday, Dec. L — Our repairs were finished early 
this morning, and we got off at nine o'clock. We 
were thankful to get quite out of the Karroo country, 



LANGE KLOOF. 



87 



which is essentially " a barren and dry land where 
no water is." The country here is in some respects 
interesting. The mountains are bold and rugged, 
but still want trees, There is scarce any green thing 
except the mimosa. We had hardly crossed the 
Olifants River before we met Mr. Sutherland, from 
the Knysna, who had ridden at least 100 miles to 
meet us. Shortly after we were met by Mr. Walter, 
of George, who had ridden as great a distance, and 
had been waiting for us more than a day. He most 
kindly came out to see that the horses, which were 
gratuitously furnished to us by the different farmers 
along the road for the last eighty miles, at the re- 
quest of their Minister and the Civil Commissioner, 
were in readiness. Had it not been for this act of 
kindness, it would have been very difficult for us to 
reach George by Saturday evening. We slept at 
Mr. Commr. Yan Rooyen's, who entertained us most 
hospitably, and would take no remuneration. 

Saturday, Dec. 2. — We had oxen to take us over 
the mountains. I was very glad to find myself in 
the Lange Kloof. It seemed quite like an old friend, 
and made us feel we were again approaching home. 
We travelled at a rapid pace with fresh horses, 
breakfasting at Mr. Ignatius Van Rooyen's, and 
dining with Mr. Richardson, who has a very large 
establishment of seventy souls on his farm. His 
buildings are the best of any that I have seen in the 
Colony ; and I was very glad to find that he had 
erected very comfortable houses for his coloured ser- 
vants. I understand he finds no difficulty in pro- 



88 



MONTAGU PASS. GEORGE. 



curing servants, for lie lets them see he takes an 
interest in them — attending to their spiritual as well 
as their temporal wants ; holding Divine Service for 
them on Sunday : and I am persuaded if more of the 
farmers would follow his example, they would be 
equally successful, and find the benefit of their 
efforts, even in a temporal point of view. I was 
very much struck with the Montagu Pass. The 
scenery is really very fine ; the mountains grand and 
picturesque, and very Alpine. The road is an 
excellent one, and well engineered. We arrived at 
George about seven o'clock, and found a large party 
of gentlemen awaiting us. We took up our quarters 
at the house of Mr. Garcia, who was kind enough to 
invite us, and where we had soon a numerous party 
of visitors. I found many of our old friends from 
the Knysna, who had come up to meet us. David- 
son met us at Mr. Richardson's, and I had a good 
deal of conversation with him. 

Sunday, Dec. 3. — We had Divine Service twice 
to-day. I preached, in the morning, on the prepara- 
tion of heart required for a due commemoration of 
Christ's first coming into the world ; and in the 
evening, upon his second coming. 

Monday, Dec. 4. — -Wrote all the morning, chiefly 
letters of business. In the afternoon, returned some 
calls. In the evening, we had a dinner party. 

Tuesday, Dec. 5. — Day spent in writing, making 
arrangements with the Churchwardens, calling on 
various people. In the evening dined with the Civil 
Commissioner. 



GOARITZ RIVER. PORT BEAUFORT. 89 



Wednesday, Dec. 6. — Started at five o'clock this 
morning. Outspanned and breakfasted at the Great 
Braak River, at the same spot as we did more than 
three months ago. Pushed on in the evening till it 
became dark, when we could find no water ; and 
therefore travelled on till we reached the Goaritz 
River after ten o'clock. We did not get to sleep 
till near midnight, as the tent took some time to 
pitch. 

Thursday, Dec. 7. — Up again before four o'clock 
this morning. We forded the Goaritz River, taking 
off our shoes and stockings at a drift where it is some- 
times 150 feet deep. Suspecting our horses might 
fail at this which is a steep, sandy drift, I watched 
for the wagon from the height of the opposite hill. 
Unfortunately my suspicion proved but too true. 
For the first time in a journey of two thousand miles 
they were beaten, greatly to the vexation of our 
driver. Here we had to remain several hours, 
waiting for a span of oxen. At length our patience 
being wearied out, we emptied our wagon, carrying 
its contents to the top of the hill. The horses then 
took it up with ease. We slept at a farm about two 
hours distant from Riversdale. 

Friday, Dec. 8. — Breakfasted with Mr. Hudson 
at Riversdale. Major Shaw, the Magistrate, spoke 
to me very earnestly about a Clergyman, and thought 
that 50/. or 60/. a- year might easily be raised. He 
is to communicate with me on the subject. We 
determined to go a little out of our way to Port: 
Beaufort, which I missed when last here, to see 



90 



SWELLENDAM. 



Mr. Barry, and the foundation of his Church, 
according to plans furnished by me which are already 
laid : we slept at his house, and walked to see the 
mouth of the Breede River. The want of good 
water will probably prevent this becoming ever 
a considerable port. 

Saturday, Dec. 9. — Sent on my wagon early, and 
followed myself later in Mr. Barry's wagon, with 
some of his family who were going up to Swellendam 
for the Sunday Service. The distance is thirty-six 
miles, and the country has a very dreary appearance, 
being much burnt up, and entirely without trees. 

Sunday, Dec. 10. — We held Divine Service in 
the Dutch Church, morning and evening. I preached 
in the morning on our Lord's second advent. Green 
in the evening. After morning service I confirmed 
a lady who had been most anxious for Confirmation 
when I was last here, but had had no notice of it, 
and determined to go to Capetown to partake of 
the ordinance, though in a bad state of health. 

Monday, Dec. 1 1 . — Rose at three o'clock ; started 
about four on my route to Worcester. The weather 
is getting very warm, and the country very dry and 
burnt up. At Swellendam upwards of 1001. a-year 
has been raised since I was here, in support of 
a Clergyman. I trust I may be able to send one 
shortly. The village is one of the neatest and most 
cheerful looking in the Colony. Our route lay 
through a pleasing valley, lying between mountains, 
and capable I should think of being cultivated to 
a great extent ; and of bearing a large population. 



WORCESTER. 



91 



We slept at Mr. Van Tyler's, a Dutch farmer of some 
intelligence. 

Tuesday, Dec. 12. — Arrived at Worcester about 
five o'clock. The distance from Swellendham is, 
I think, about ninety miles. The day was intensely 
hot, and we etrjoyed much a bathe in the river. 
Worcester is very beautifully situated at the foot of 
the mountains. It was apparently intended, when 
laid out, for a large town ; but at present contains, 
including the coloured people, not more than three 
thousand souls. The houses are at a great distance 
from each other, and surrounded by fields or gardens. 
The soil seems rich, and is well watered. We took 
up our abode at the Drosdy House, having been 
kindly invited to do so by Mr. Truter, the Civil 
Commissioner, a most agreeable and gentlemanly 
person. This house was built as a shooting box by 
Lord C. Somerset, when Governor ; and is one of the 
best in the Colony. The gardens about it are excel- 
lent. The premises, which are too large for any 
private person, would make admirable buildings for 
a College. 

Wednesday, Dec. 13. — Went before breakfast 
with Mr. Truter, to visit the gaol. The only prisoner 
is a Dutch farmer, who recently beat his wife to 
death because she remonstrated with him for pre- 
tending to celebrate the Lord's Supper when in 
a state of intoxication. He has for the last few days 
become at times insane, apparently from remorse 
and despair. I spoke a few words to him respecting 
repentance and pardon, but it was too much for 



92 



WORCESTER. 



him. He became convulsed, and I was obliged to 
leave him. Crimes like his are very rare in this 
Colony ; but, as in the mother country, in most cases 
they have their origin in drink, to which there are 
but too many temptations. After breakfast I exa- 
mined the government school. I found the teacher 
here, as elsewhere, cramming the children with 
natural philosophy, and all kinds of hard words, the 
meaning of which they did not understand, instead 
of giving them a plain useful education, suited to 
their circumstances. I was pleased, however, with 
the knowledge which two or three children exhibited 
of the history of the Old Testament. At eleven 
o'clock I held a meeting of the English inhabitants 
in the vestry of the Dutch Church. There were not 
many present, nor indeed are there many in the 
place, and these are chiefly poor. Several offered 
themselves as candidates for Confirmation ; and one 
or two seemed very anxious to have a Clergyman 
placed amongst them ; but I fear I shall scarcely be 
able to effect this at present. One man pleaded very 
earnestly with me, and spoke with great feeling of 
his own condition, cut off as he is from the means of 
grace, and utterly unable to comprehend the Dutch 
Service. There are some Rhenish Missionaries here, 
who seem to be respectable men ; though they do 
not appear to be doing any great good. After our 
meeting I called on Mr. Sutherland, the Dutch 
Minister ; he has usually only one service on 
the Sunday, but once a month he holds an Eng- 
lish service. In the afternoon wrote letters, &c. 



WORCESTER. 



93 



There were several gentlemen to dinner in the 
evening. 

Thursday, Dec. 14. — Had interviews this morning 
with several persons who wished to see me on re- 
ligious matters. One English farmer who had come 
30 hours, (180 miles,) wished to be confirmed. He 
had not seen an English Clergyman for many years. 
I found him well instructed in religion, but on in- 
quiry discovered he had been living fifteen years with 
a coloured woman. He was anxious to be married 
to her, but she had not been baptized ; and upon 
examination we found her not sufficiently instructed. 
The nearest Dutch Church to him is 24 hours dis- 
tant (150 miles). What can we hope for or expect in 
such a state of things ! He is during the next four 
months to instruct her whom he calls his wife, more 
perfectly in the Christian faith, and afterwards to 
bring her to Capetown for more full instruction, 
and for baptism : after which I have promised they 
shall be married and confirmed. At ten o'clock con- 
firmed five candidates, whom Gr. had prepared yes- 
terday. There was a tolerably full Church. After 
service some members of our Church spoke to me, 
with tears in their eyes, about the comfort they had 
had in once more hearing their own Ministers, and 
their own Liturgy ; and earnestly entreated me to 
send a Clergyman to them. I promised to do what 
I could towards providing them with a Service once 
a month. We left Worcester at two o'clock, much 
gratified with our visit at the house of Mr. Truter. 
Our route to the Convict Station lay through a fine 



94 



Mitchell's pass, tulbagh. 



and fertile valley, where the farms are closer to each 
other than in any other part of the country that I 
have seen. We arrived at Musteed's Hocks about 
eight o'clock, Mr. Bain, the intelligent superinten- 
dent of the convicts and engineer of the roads, hav- 
ing ridden out with some other gentlemen to meet 
us. Had it not been for their courtesy, we should 
have had some difficulty in finding our way in the 
dark, through several very difficult fords of the 
Breede River. We slept the night at Mr. Bain's. 

Friday, Dec. 15. — At six o'clock this morning 
we started on horseback to ride up the new road, 
now called Mitchell's Pass ; and to inspect the Con- 
vict Station. The establishment appears to be 
admirably conducted, and the discipline is excellent. 
I had the greater number of the convicts (of whom 
there are 250) assembled in the Chapel, and addressed 
them, their teacher interpreting for me. I had after- 
wards an interesting conversation with some Eng- 
lish convicts. The Pass is a very beautiful one, the 
road excellent, and well engineered. I love to see 
these great works going on in the Colony, opening 
out, as they do, vast tracts of land, and developing 
the resources of the country. After breakfast we 
proceeded to Tulbagh, (three hours.) This is a small 
but pretty village, with very few . English. We 
had tiffin with Mr. Shand, the Dutch Minister. 
There is in this place the only congregation I know 
of that has avowedly separated from the Dutch 
Church. At three o'clock we started again, and 
arrived at eight o'clock at Maland's Farm. We had 



WELLINGTON. THE PAARL. 



95 



by the way a very pleasant bathe in the Waterfall 
River. 

Saturday, Dec. 16.— Outspanned for breakfast 
near Wellington, a new village rising up near Bain's 
Kloof, and likely to be much increased, in conse- 
quence of the new road about to be made over the 
Pass. Having got careless as to our " pat-cop" as we 
approached home, we fared but badly, and finished 
our meal by a draught of not the clearest water in 
the world. We walked over the village — called 
upon the Dutch Minister, and an English gentleman, 
and found there were a few members of our Church 
here, and several more English, who, for want of 
the ministrations of their own Church, have joined 
the Dutch. About ten o'clock we proceeded on to the 
Paarl, which is distant from Wellington about an 
hour and-a-half. The Paarl is beautifully situated, 
and has a considerable population. The farms here 
are much smaller than usual, and the farmers in and 
around the village are chiefly employed in cultivating 
the vine. Indeed this is one of the best vine-growing 
parts of the Colony. The irregularity of the houses 
here, the fine oak trees, and the beauty and fertility 
of the gardens make this one of the most interesting 
villages in the Colony. There is, as usual, a want 
of water, though we found it of sufficient depth in 
the river not far distant from the village to enjoy a 
good swim. The Dutch Minister here is one of the 
most learned of their body. The London Missionary 
Society has a station and a chapel, and I believe 
a respectable congregation of the coloured classes. 



96 



STELLENBOSCH. 



About one o'clock we proceeded on our route, after 
having made arrangements with Mr. Inglis, the 
teacher in the Government School, who held a ser- 
vice every Sunday, respecting the services for Tues- 
day, when I am to hold my Visitation here. Long 
before we arrived at Stellenbosch, we caught glimpses 
of the Table Mountain ; and the eye could trace the 
range up to the point under which Protea lies. I 
felt thankful to have even this distant view of home, 
and regretted that my arrangements compelled me 
to retrace my steps even for a few days. The Civil 
Commissioner not being able to receive us at his 
house, in consequence of his wife's illness, we took 
up our quarters at the hotel. I had scarce opened 
my packet of letters before I saw my carriage drive 
past the door. In an instant I was again, by God's 
great mercy, permitted to see my dearest wife, from 
whom I had been separated nearly four months. We 
had the Civil Commissioner and several visitors in 
the evening. Stellenbosch is ; like so many other 
places in this Colony, beautifully situated at the foot 
of the mountain ; but in no place that I have seen 
are the streets so completely overshadowed by full 
grown oak trees. In the summer this is a great 
luxury. In the winter it probably leads to some 
degree of damp. 

Sunday, Dec, 17. — We held Divine service this 
morning, in the Dutch Church, after their service 
was concluded. There was a large congregation. 
We administered the Holy Communion to about six 
people. In the evening we held service again, 



STELLENBOSCH. THE FAARL. 



97 



when there was an equally good congregation. Some- 
thing must be done for this place. There is no 
English service of any kind here. Besides the 
Dutch Church, there are two Rhenish Missionaries, 
with a large coloured congregation, and a Wesleyan 
Missionary. The population of the place is, I be- 
lieve, little short of four thousand. 

Monday, Dec. 18. — At ten o'clock this morning 
I held a Confirmation in the Dutch Church, when 
six were confirmed, whom Green had been pre- 
paring while here. At twelve o'clock, I held a 
meeting of the English in the Court-house, when a 
memorial was addressed to Government, praying for 
a grant of 100/. a-year towards the stipend of an 
English Clergyman, and grants of land for Church 
and parsonage. A subscription was also opened for 
a stipend for a Clergyman. There was an English 
Clergyman settled in this place a few years since, 
who, when he went away, left an English congrega- 
tion of ninety, who have had no minister since. 
After returning one or two visits, and seeing my 
wife off, we started again in our wagon for the 
Paarl, where we arrived about seven o'clock. 

Tuesday, Dec. 19. — We held Divine service this 
morning, in the Government School-room, at ten 
o'clock: there was a full congregation, chiefly of 
Dutch. There were six baptisms, and as many 
candidates for Confirmation, whom Mr. Inglis the 
teacher (formerly a catechist of the Colonial Church 
Society) had prepared. I both preached and ad- 
dressed the candidates, who all seemed to feel 

H 



93 



MALMESBURY. 



deeply. Mr. Inglis, after service, applied to me to 
ordain him, offering to officiate as Minister at the 
Paarl without a stipend. At one o'clock, we again 
started en route for Malmesbury, where we arrived 
at about half-past seven in the evening. The Civil 
Commissioner being unable to receive us himself 
into his house, committed us to the hospitality of a 
Dutch lady, who received us very courteously. 
There is not much in the external appearance of 
Malmesbury to interest one. The situation is bleak 
and dreary. There are a few trees, and a deficiency 
of water which prevents the inhabitants from culti- 
vating gardens to any extent. There is, however, 
a sulphureous warm spring, and a miserable public 
bath. The bath is, I believe, beneficial in rheumatic 
cases, but does not seem to be much used. There is 
a Dutch Church here, but no Missionary station. 
The Moravian Institution, however, at Green Kloof, 
is only a few hours distant. There are not many 
English here ; but I find there are a good many 
about Saldanha and St. Helena Bays, who do not 
bear the most respectable character. We spent one 
evening in preparing some very interesting candi- 
dates for Baptism and Confirmation, and in con- 
versing with several gentlemen who had been invited 
to meet us. 

Wednesday, Dec. 20. — Walked about the village 
before breakfast. At nine o'clock went to the Govern- 
ment School, where a public examination was going 
on. The children answered very satisfactorily the 
questions put to them on religious subjects. At ten 



d'urban. protea. 



S9 



o'clock we held Divine Service in the Dutch Church, 
and baptized three adults, who had been prepared by 
Mr. Inglis, and an infant. I confirmed one of the 
party whom I baptized. At about two o'clock we 
started again, and drove over a sandy road through 
a country well cultivated, and bearing large crops of 
wheat and oats, to the farm of Mr. Procter, an 
English gentleman. He, like every one else, com- 
plains sadly of the want of labourers ; he says that 
he is offering three shillings a day, together with two 
pounds of meat, two pounds of bread, and two bottles 
of wine during harvest time, and cannot get labour- 
ers. He says he could employ 100 additional hands, 
if he could procure them. One man, whom he 
brought out a few years since as labourer without a 
shilling, has now realized 500Z. Another, who came 
out eleven years since, has now a well-stocked farm 
of 3,000 acres ; but he too complains sadly of the want 
of labourers, and the difficulty of obtaining education 
for his children. 

Thursday, Dec. 21. — Drove three hours to 
D'Urban, to breakfast. This is a small and uninte- 
resting village, built upon a sandy soil, and without 
trees. It has nothing attractive about it. There is 
a Dutch Church, and also a resident Clergyman, whom 
we called upon. At half-past eleven we started 
again for Protea, at which place we arrived at a 
quarter past three. My dearest wife rode out to 
meet us. I was right glad to see Capetown and 
Table Mountain once more, as we approached our 
home. 



100 



CONCLUSION. 



And now let me record my deep gratitude to 
Almighty God for having brought me safely back to 
my home and family, after a journey of nearly 3,000 
miles, through a strange land, and an absence of four 
months. I cannot be too thankful for the many 
mercies which have attended me throughout. I left 
home enfeebled and worn : I return in strength and 
health. I have been enabled to keep every engage- 
ment I have made, and in almost every case to the 
day. I have never been prevented from officiating 
on any occasion, either through sickness or accident. 
I have seen our people, though long and grievously 
neglected, still clinging to their mother Church, and 
ready to make great personal exertions and sacrifice 
to share in her ministrations. I have seen very 
remarkable effects resulting from the mere celebra- 
tion of our holy services, especially Confirmation 
and Holy Communion ; sufficient, were there no 
other evidence, to prove them to be of God, and 
apparently showing that God has been pleased to 
bless the first administration of the Church s Ordi- 
nances in this desolate and with a double measure 
of His gracious presence. I have seen with my own 
eyes the condition of the greater portion of the 
Diocese, and have been convinced that our day of 
grace as a Church has not passed away ; but that 
God has still a great work for us to do in Southern 
Africa, if we have but the heart and the faith to 
enter upon it. I have been enabled, I trust, to pave 
the way for the erection of Churches, and the sup- 
port of ministers, in almost all our towns and large 



CONCLUSION. 



101 



villages. I have been able to confirm, altogether, in 
this Visitation, nearly 900 candidates, and I return 
home to meet a little band of faithful and devoted 
men, whom God has been pleased to raise up for the 
support of our feeble Church in this land. May- 
God give me grace to be thankful for these things, 
and to be more earnest and devoted to His cause. 
May He supply all that is wanting in this land, for 
the promotion of the glory of His own great name — 
the extension of the kingdom of His dear Son — and 
the salvation of men's souls ! 



103 



VISITATION AT ST. HELENA, IN 1849. 



St. Helena, April 10th, Easter Tuesday, 1849. 

My Dear , 

You will be glad, I am sure, to receive my report 
of the state of Religion in this Island, together with 
some account of my Visitation of it. I left Simons 
Town on the 22 d of February, in H. M. steamer, 
Geyser, and had a most agreeable voyage, receiving 
every attention from Captain Brown and the offi- 
cers of the ship. We had prayers morning and 
evening, at which, the whole of the officers, and such 
of the men as could be spared, regularly attended. 
I need scarcely add that we had Divine Service 
twice every Sunday. A more orderly and attentive 
congregation I have seldom seen. 

We arrived here on the morning of the 7th of 
March. Captain Knipe, A. D. C. to his Excellency 
Sir Patrick Ross, the Governor, came on board im- 
mediately upon our anchoring, to convey me to 
Plantation House, the rain preventing Sir P. Ross 
from coming to receive me. He had ordered a 
salute, which however I declined. On the Friday 
after my arrival, His Excellency appointed a Levee 



104 



ST. HELENA. 



at the Castle, at which about fifty gentlemen of the 
island, civil and military, were present and intro- 
duced. From that time to the present I have been 
busily employed every day in visiting the parish- 
ioners — assisting the clergy in preparing candidates 
for confirmation — in confirming, in consecrating the 
church and various churchyards, examination of 
schools, in preaching, and in business arising out of 
the Visitation — such as the repeal of local ordinances 
which interfered with the Bishop's office, in the con- 
veyance of the churches and burial grounds, (all of 
which were still in the hands of Government,) to the 
See— in remodelling, and placing upon a sounder and 
more extended footing the Church Society, — and I 
trust also another very important ecclesiastical asso- 
ciation, called the Benevolent Society. 

The island itself is in many respects very inter- 
esting. Plantation House reminds me much of 
many of our more favoured English country resi- 
dences. The house is beautifully situated amidst 
woods, about three .miles from the town, with a fine 
green valley in front sloping towards the sea, above 
which, however, it lies full 2,000 feet. The ride to 
Sandy Bay is striking, but the view of the Bay itself 
singularly beautiful and remarkable. I shall not 
attempt a description of it, but it is unique. I have of 
course visited Longwood and Napoleon's grave, but 
I shall not weary you with an account of them, as 
there is nothing striking, about either. We use the 
billiard room in the new house, built for him, as a 
chapel, and there is an excellent congregation there. 



ST. HELENA, 



105 



The situation of James's Town is picturesque, jammed 
up in a narrow valley, between huge barren moun- 
tains, which seem as if they would overwhelm it. 
The church, though not by any means perfect in 
point of architecture, is nevertheless a pleasing 
building, with a neat, well-proportioned tower and 
spire, and is in excellent order. It faces the sea, and 
is the most striking object as you approach the an- 
chorage. The country church is an inferior building, 
and not in good repair ; but the inhabitants have 
just determined upon erecting a new building, for 
which Mr. Ferry has been kind enough to furnish 
plans. The cost is to be 2,500/., and the site is one 
of the most lovely I have seen, commanding a most 
glorious view of the mighty ocean, with a foreground 
of wood and broken mountain scenery, which here 
and there intersect the sea views, and cause a most 
pleasing variety. 

There are four clergymen now belonging to the 
island : — Mr. Kempthorne, the senior Colonial Chap- 
lain, whom I have appointed Commissary, Rural Dean, 
and Surrogate ; Mr. Helps, Military Chaplain ; and 
Mr. Bousfield, whom I sent out as Assistant Chap- 
lain. Mr. Helps is absent on leave in England. 
Mr. K. and Mr. B. are both excellent and devoted 
men, and labouring assiduously in their sacred call- 
ing. The fourth is Mr. Frey, whom I had much 
satisfaction in ordaining, during my visitation, to 
the holy office of Deacon, being strongly recommended 
to me by the clergy and several of the laity. He 
was formerly a German Missionary in India, which 



106 



ST. HELENA. 



country he left several years ago in impaired health, 
He is now master of the country Government school. 
He will strictly confine himself to the duties which 
properly belong to the Diaconate, continuing in his 
office of teacher, and devoting his days, after two 
o'clock, to visiting the poor, many of whom, espe- 
cially of those who were slaves, are very ignorant, 
and have been recently led into schism by a person 
who came to this island a short time since, and began 
by exhorting people to go to church, but, as soon as 
he had ingratiated himself with some simple people, 
avowed himself a strenuous advocate of the Ana- 
baptist heresy. The island still greatly needs an- 
other clergyman, who should devote much of his 
time to visiting the poor from house to house. The 
rugged and mountainous nature of the country, 
coupled with the very great heat of the climate, 
render it impossible for a clergyman to do as much 
parochial work here as in England. Could I but see 
my way clearly to the appointment of another 
clergyman, I should leave this ioland with great com- 
fort, feeling assured that, notwithstanding division 
has, for the first time during a period of 150 years, 
been introduced into the community, God's good 
work would prosper under the faithful ministry of 
his servants. Indeed good has already been brought 
out of evil ; for many of those who until now have 
rested in the faith which they have received without 
inquiry, have been led to examine into the founda- 
tion upon which it rests, and to hold, with a firmer 
grasp and a clearer conviction, truths rrhich until now 



ST. HELENA. 



107 



they had held only implicitly. Both the clergy and 
myself also have felt constrained to speak more plainly 
upon Church subjects and principles than we other- 
wise might have done, and the result has been that 
no inconsiderable number have become more devoted, 
loving, obedient children of their mother Church 
than they otherwise might have been. 

I should add that, in addition to the country 
church, small chapels, capable of holding from one 
hundred to two hundred souls, are greatly needed 
at Sandy Bay, Longwood, and the upper part of 
James's Town, at each of which places there are ex- 
cellent congregations. The people of this island are 
far too poor to undertake these works at present, 
having the country church to build. Unless, there- 
fore, they are greatly aided by the mother Church, 
they must, I fear, remain without these blessings for 
many years to come. 

The state of education in the island is not all that 
could be wished, chiefly through the incompetency 
of several of the teachers. There are eight schools. 
Government and the Benevolent Society both con- 
tribute liberally to this good work. I should be 
very thankful if I could invite one or two teachers 
from our Training Colleges, but at present I fear 
very little can be done. 

You are aware that this is a great depot for Afri- 
cans captured from slavers. About 3,000 of these 
poor creatures are landed on this island every year. 
Of these nearly one half suffer in health from the 
hardships they endure from their inhuman tyrants ; 



108 



ST. HELENA, 



and about one-fourth are very heavily afflicted. I 
accompanied his Excellency a few days ago in a visit 
to their village or establishment in Rupert's Yalley. 
If anything were needed to fill the soul with burning 
indignation against that master work of Satan, the 
Slave-trade, it would be a visit to this institution. 
There were less than 600 poor souls in it at the 
period of my visit ; of these more than 300 were in 
hospital ; some afflicted with dreadful ophthalmia ; 
others with severe rheumatism ; others with dysen- 
tery ; the number of deaths in the week being 
twenty-one. I think I have seldom beheld a more 
deplorable spectacle. 

I was pained to find that no effort is made to 
instruct these poor things during the time they are 
in the island ; and the more so, because the Super- 
intendent informed me that they show a great apti- 
tude for instruction, and have a strong desire for it. 
The lack of employment too for their minds has a 
bad effect upon their health and spirits ; so that when 
sickness overtakes them, they sink at once into a 
settled melancholy ; and some commit suicide, partly 
from lowness of spirits, partly because, poor souls, 
they imagine that after death they will return to 
their much loved home and fatherland. The least 
thought must convince any one that, the healthy 
exercise of the mind would be of great service to 
them in every way ; and it is sad to think that our 
Government should spend 10,000/. a-year on this 
Institution, and between 300,000/. and 400,000/. in 
support of the squadron, and yet not allow the trifling 



ST. HELENA. 



109 



sum which would be needful to supply them with a 
teacher. Mr. Frey, whom I have just ordained, did 
at one time undertake the work, and with some suc- 
cess, but Government would not sanction the appro- 
priation of a stipend. 

A day or two after I had visited Rupert's Valley, 
a slave ship was brought in, captured by one of our 
cruisers. She was a schooner of about 100 tons, 
and had 560 slaves on board. I went to see them, 
that I might more fully realize their condition. The 
cargo was a particularly healthy one, the number of 
deaths being only about one a-day. Two were lying 
dead upon the deck, and one had the day before 
jumped overboard. Everything was done by the 
officers and crew in charge to keep the ship clean ; 
but you can conceive better than I can describe 
what the condition of such a mass of human beings 
must be in so small a space. The deck was entirely 
covered with them. They had a worn look, and 
wasted appearance, and were moved into the boats 
like bales of goods, apparently without any will of 
their own. I crept down between decks to the place 
where they are usually stowed away. It might be 
between three and four feet high, and the atmo- 
sphere was most offensive, although not occupied by 
one-third of the usual number. The condition, 
however, of a slave-ship has been too often described 
to make it necessary for me to enlarge upon it. I 
shall only say, I never beheld a more piteous sight 
— never looked upon a more affecting scene — never 
before felt so powerful a call to be a Missionary. I 



110 



ST. HELENA. 



did not quit that ship without having resolved more 
firmly than ever that I would, with the grace and 
help of God, commence as speedily as possible direct 
Mission work in Southern Africa, and that I vrould 
never cease entreating of the mother Church the 
needful supply of men and means, that the reproach 
may be wiped off which, alas ! still attaches to us, of 
being almost the only body of Christians in this 
great Diocese which is not engaged in the work of 
the conversion of the Heathen. 

I have only now to add, that I have been during 
the five weeks that I have been here the guest of the 
Governor, who has been to me most kind and hos- 
pitable, and who, with his excellent family, takes a 
deep interest in the spiritual as well as the moral and 
social condition of the island under his government. 
I have held two Confirmations ; at the first of which 
upwards of 100 communicants presented themselves, 
and at the latter we had between 300 and 400, alto- 
gether nearly 500, — that is, about a tenth of the whole 
population of the island. I have also consecrated 
the Church at James's Town, together with the five 
burial-grounds in the island ; held a Visitation, with 
a special view to the reformation of some points in 
which the Church was defective, and the restoration 
of Church discipline ; and summoned a public meet- 
ing of the inhabitants, with a view to interest them 
more generally in the \york of the Church through 
means of the Church Society. The meeting, at 
which his Excellency the Governor presided, was 
w r ell attended, and will, I trust, lead to a larger 



ST. HELENA. 



Ill 



measure of support towards the several objects 
which the Society embraces ; — the maintenance of 
the Ministry— the erection of Churches— Missions, and 
a fund for Bibles, Prayer-books, and other religious 
works approved by the Bishop, and the foundation 
of a scholarship or scholarships, in connexion with 
our Collegiate School at the Cape. 

Believe me, ever, 

Dear , 

Yours very faithfully, 

R. Capetown. 

From a Letter dated at Sea, April 23, 1849. 
I had an affecting parting from many at St. Helena. 
The circumstances of the island, together with its 
being a first Visitation, compelled me to speak upon 
subjects I would gladly have been silent on: I mean, 
the nature and constitution of the Church — the 
office and authority of a Bishop in the Church of 
God — the succession of the Ministry — schism, &c. 
I do not mean that these were exclusive subjects, 
(God forbid.) but I was compelled to speak out on 
these points more plainly than I had ever done 
before, and I really believe much to the furtherance 
of Christ's cause. The people there are certainly 
prepared to take a deep interest in religious matters, 
and some good has, I trust, been done. They fol- 
lowed me in crowds, and expressed much affection. 
I was to have embarked on Sunday night after 
Church, instead of returning to Plantation House 
in the country, but several of the laity expressed a 



112 



ST. HELENA. 



hope that I would not leave them in the dark, but 
let them accompany me to the shore; so I waited till 
Monday morning, and then had a large attendance 
of authorities, &c. I shall never forget the kind- 
ness of the Governor and his excellent family : they 
received me as a brother. 



The Clergy also accompanied the Bishop on board 
the Geyser, and presented him with the following 
address : — 

" My Lord, — We, the Clergy of St. Helena, beg 
permission, at your Lordship's departure, to offer 
our farewell tribute of most sincere veneration and 
attachment. More than six years have now elapsed 
since the necessity of Episcopal superintendence 
over the Church in this Colony was officially repre- 
sented by a memorial transmitted through Her 
Majesty's Government. That necessity has now 
been supplied in the person of your Lordship ; and 
while reviewing the firmness and delicacy with which 
the high and sacred functions of a Bishop have been 
introduced amongst a people to whom they were 
before unknow 7 n, we cannot but most heartily record 
our gratitude to the great Head of the Church, for 
directing the choice of our rulers to one endowed 
with such qualities of mind and heart — qualities 
which lend a peculiar grace to every act of authority, 
and render obedience on our part only a privilege. 
Our gratitude for the many marks of your Lord- 



ST. HELENA. 



113 



ship's personal kindness and regard will be best 
evinced by following up with our liock that vigour 
and earnestness in the service of our common Lord 
which has been so singularly exemplified throughout 
the whole period of your Lordship's Visitation. We 
heartily pray that the Almighty Giver of all good 
things may grant to your Lordship length of days 
and every good gift for the continued exercise of 
your high office ; and with all affectionate reverence 
we would say, Father, farewell ! " 



R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. 
I 



Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process 
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide 
•Treatment Date: March 2006 

PreservationTechnoloqies I 

A WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATION I 

11 1 Thomson Park Drive 
Cranberry Township, PA 16066 

(724)779-2111 



